How elite international fashion houses won over Mumbai

Over the years, brands like Louis Vuitton, Versace, Burberry, Gucci, Moschino, and Jimmy Choo, have become household names — that is, in those households where members at one time, had no other option, but to pick up couture and prêt on one of their many jaunts abroad. But all that’s changed, and the streets of Mumbai have become a popular hunting ground for the well-heeled fashionistas, with chic outlets mushrooming in different parts of the city. According to fashion pundits and editors of international fashion bibles, the market for these international brands is growing apace in India.

“The Indian consumer can be divided into five classes: Businessmen, the big Bollywood star, politicians, royalty, and now, the emerging middle class,” says Tikka Singh, advisor to the president of Louis Vuitton.

Inflation, tottering stock markets and the steady decline of the Rupee do little to burst the bubble. Singh’s views are echoed in Maneka Thadani’s opinion. Thadani is the senior communication manager of the Murjani Group that has launched Gucci, Jimmy Choo, and Bottega Veneta, in India. “The most exciting part of entering the luxury segment in India is that there are vast opportunities waiting to be explored, and new
paradigms waiting to be set,” says Thadani.

But with the exception of a few brands, most of the big names have outlets in five-star shopping arcades or stock a selection of clothes in a few elite malls. “We are known as ‘luxury brands’, hence, we prefer establishing ourselves in a luxury hotel because we cater to a very niche audience,” says Tara Dhillon, floor manager of the Moschino showroom, at the Taj Hotel.

The price tag for luxury often starts at a few thousand Rupees for a simple belt, and runs into lakhs. For instance, bags at Louis Vuitton start from Rs50,000, while the cost of a Burberry outfit can range anywhere between Rs6,000 to Rs1 lakh.

Spokespersons for these brands insist that the stores stock the latest international trends. “A Moschino outlet in Milan will have the same selection of dresses as a store here, but we do keep in mind the preference of the Indian woman, with respect to the cut of the dress, style, and so on. Apart from that, we also keep in mind the season,” says Dhillon.

And the jet set is slowly warming to the idea of filling their wardrobe with their favourite brands without having to step out of the country. “Initially, I would do most of my shopping abroad,” says socialite Queenie Dhody. “You tend to get more variety there, but the demand is so great, that the clothes and accessories are sold out quickly” However, most buyers agree that India is a good place for accessory shopping. “Most women don’t feel comfortable in western wear. Accessories, shoes, bags, etc are things that they prefer shopping for. I think Louis Vuitton is best for its accessories,” says Chaya Momaya, a grooming consultant and a regular on Mumbai’s social circuit.

There is not much competition for big international brands in the Indian market, as popular opinion is that they function in more rarefied circles. “These brands have a big name; they are class apart. Indian designers are moving more towards Indian wear, but international brands are not bringing that in,” says fashion designer, Deepika Ghani.

Indian designers will always have their share of clients, despite the competition from international brands. Says designer, Wendell Rodricks: “India is a large market, and is poised to be the world’s number one young consumer population in the world in the next decade. There is definitely market space for everyone.”

“And competition is always good,” adds Ghani.

And while many of the international outlets seem empty of shoppers — with more assistants than buyers on the floor — sales, they say, have never been so good. And expansion is the only thing they have on their mind.
h_namita@dnaindia.net