LIFESTYLE
The Dubai flagship’s modernist Indian cuisine comes to Mumbai with pleasantly surprising twists
While Trèsind opened its doors in Dubai four years ago, it was only a matter of time that the fine dine restaurant found its way to the country. The restaurant that offers a modernist India luxury dining experience is all set to open its doors to Mumbai tomorrow, but we managed to get a sneak peek before that.
The highlights of beautiful blues, teals and gold that underline the theme of water which runs across the seating, décor and even the cutlery, are eye-catching. The rose gold mirror bar with its almost invisible shelves is the highlight as is the blue serpentine seating in the middle of the hall.
It’s the ten-course Chef’s Tasting Menu that was on the agenda and that was an exciting thought by itself, because the chef is none other than Himanshu Saini, who has been quite the trailblazer. The snacks, including the pumpkin dabeli, the sorbet pani puri and their interpretation of dahi kebab fuelled our imagination. The sweet, sour and tangy Watermelon Rasam proved to be a wonderful accompaniment to the ghee-roasted prawns served with it. The Chicken Cafreal was a pleasant surprise as the Goan chicken preparation came served on a crispy fried Japanese Shiso leaf, topped with puffed red rice and fresh shiso leaves and we relished the unusual combo. But they were not done with the surprises yet.
The Lamb Khari that followed was possibly the most delicious lamb dish we have tasted. The succulent lamb, cooked with spices and served with fried khari and a rich, creamy curry made of stock and bone marrow, was, we thought, the highlight of the course. But the chef surprised us further with the Gujarati farsan, a khandvi ice cream with fafda, papaya chutney and khandvi. Strangely, it all came together quite well! The Family Picnic was a delicious kosha mangsho with peas kachori. But it was the Khichdi that took the cake. The chef garnished it in front of us and we watched as 20 different ingredients from different parts of the country, including saffron from Kashmir, green apple from Himachal Pradesh, beaten chickpeas from Bihar, papaya chutney from Gujarat, gongura pickle from Andhra Pradesh among others, went into it, making it a thoroughly comforting dish. The Sadhya that followed it, was Trèsind’s take on the South Indian payasam, a sweet and savoury coconut and pineapple dish.
Chicken Cafreal (left); Kaju Katli
A meal as good as this usually ends with a dessert that disappoints. Or is so heavy that you end up leaving it half-eaten. Naturally, we expected the same, little knowing that chef Himanshu had a trick up his sleeve. Condensed milk foam made from kaju katli served alongside pulled sugar crumble flavoured with butterscotch, and topped with pistachio, gold leaf and rose petals, had a nutty flavour and was so light and airy, that it literally melted in our mouths. The perfect end to a soul-satisfying meal.
Price: Veg, Rs 1800 plus taxes, Non veg, Rs 2,000 plus taxes. Currently open only for dinner
Address: Restaurant num 4, BKC Inspire, next to MGL Gas Station, G Block, BKC, Bandra (E)
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