Hidden history

Tucked away in a bustling street of Mumbai lies a synagogue, tightly wedged between two shabby buildings. Unlike its flashier Kala Ghoda counterpart—the Keneseth Eliyahoo synagogue—Shaar Harahamim is shielded from the tourist gaze. Nine synagogues dot the city but this shy little synagogue is the oldest with colourful history etched into its curves and cornices.

The Gate of Mercy (Shaar Harahamim Synagogue) would never have been built if not for the ruler Tipu Sultan and his Anglo-Mysore Wars. In the late 18th Century, Tipu Sultan sought to stop the insidiously spreading fingers of the East India Company by waging wars against its army. He captured and imprisoned a number of its officers; among them was the brave Commandant Samuel Ezekiel Divekar (Samaji Hasaji Divekar). Tipu Sultan, a devout Muslim, asked Divekar his religion. He replied, "I am a Bene Israel Jew." Tipu's mother overheard this and was elated—the Quran speaks well of the Israelites and here was one standing in front of her! She spared Divekar's life and when he returned to Mumbai, he built the Gate of Mercy synagogue to express his gratitude towards God.
Divekar first built the synagogue in 1796 in Esplanade. It was rebuilt in 1860 at its present location in Samuel Street, Mandvi, and is known as Dayeche Dvar in Marathi. Samuel Street itself is named after Divekar.

The colourful yellow and blue walls belie the stillness of its interiors. Painted a pale frosty blue, the breezy room is a haven of solitude. Nowadays, only a handful of people glimpse the gleaming wooden benches, shuttered windows and beautiful old-fashioned lamps suspended from the ceiling.
There are very few Jews left in the city, most having migrated to Israel decades ago. The Jews in Mumbai have integrated perfectly; many have Maharashtrian surnames and speak Marathi fluently. Even within the synagogue, you will see signs in English, Marathi and Hebrew.