Balai... The Lucknowi wonder
The streets of old Lucknow have many a story to tell. Every time I visit these narrow streets and get lost in them, I discover something new. Balai is one such discovery made some time ago in the gullies of chowk. It has the nuttiness of our clotted cream (malai) along with a rich creaminess that comes from the reduction of milk. Milk is slowly heated (never boiled) in thick bottomed flat and shallow kadhais on cowdung 'uplas', and a layer of balai forms. The milk is allowed to reduce to a very thick consistency and the balai is removed and stacked on top of each other. These gateaux like stacks are sold in the streets especially, Victoria Street, in the mornings. In this street they have a specialty called Kashmiri chai being sold in the winters. It's not the kehwa but a light pink coloured, very sweet milky tea, the nawabs called it Kashmiri because they felt the color and the sweetness was just like the people of Kashmir; royal comprehension does affect cuisine you see!
Here's the interesting part though, this tea is 'eaten' with a spoon and not sipped. Kagazi samosa, a light flaky puff is crumbled into a cup and this pink tea is poured into it and then it's topped with a huge dollop of balai. This rich and royal winter concoction warms you up instantly.
On my last visit, I went to Banwali gali in chowk to the 200-year-old Ram Asrey Mishtaan Bhandar and discovered this wonder all over again this time in the form of a Gilori or a paan. Nanhe, their balai
specialist guided me through the complete process of making the balai and then filled it up with a unique mixture of nuts and kesari misri, a saffron flavored rock sugar.We rolled up the giloris when the balai was still warm and I stole a moment to make a one for myself. The taste, the mouthfeel, the contrast between the creaminess of Balai and the crunch of the rock sugar created a perfect moment and gave me a food memory forever
Here's an inspired recipe dedicated Nanhe, the Balai maker
Bruleed Balai éclairs
Ingredients
Choux buns or éclair shells: 3
Balai or half cream half malai:1 cup
Rock sugar: 1 tbsp
Gulkand: ½ tsp
Chopped nuts: 1 tbsp
Method
Roll the gulkand and the nuts in the balai. Cut and retain the tops of the éclairs. Fill the éclairs with balai mix and top with rock sugar and brulee with a torch. Put the tops of the éclair back and serve immediately.
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