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’40s tailoring is back

The roaring decade makes its presence felt in Fall Winter 2019-20...

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A look from Dolce & Gabbbana FW 19-20; (right) Gucci’s punk take on ’40s tailoring
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Fashion is cyclical and it’s interesting how each decade makes its distinctive presence felt time and again. While the mod ’60s and the swinging ’70s always end up being the key runway story across the board of late, there has been a resurgence of the outre ’80s. However, Fall Winter 19-20 collections saw the comeback of 1940’s tailoring seen at Gucci, Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana. Think peak shoulders jacket meets high-waist and a pair of wide-legged trousers.

Designer Alessandro Michele at Gucci offered a punk take on the tailoring with spikes accents, while Fendi’s mink coats came with a sophisticated finish. Dolce & Gabbana’s pantsuit style brought to mind some of Katharine Hepburn’s iconic movie looks. 

Designer Nikhil Thampi says, “The period of the ’40s is defined as the ‘classic’, which reminds me of well-tailored suits, hourglass dresses, peplum tops and peter pan collars. Since the culture of experimental clothing is rising amongst millennials, the decade’s fashion can definitely prove to make a great comeback. The era’s suit is a perfect example of ease and effortless elegance. The oversized jacket apart from trousers, can also be paired with high-waist shorts or can be thrown over a well-fitted dress teamed with sneakers to give it a modern chic look.” 

FABRIC FALL IS CRUCIAL

The ’40s suit had a boxy and structured fit, which was inspired by the styles worn by men in that era. “While reviving any outfit, it is essential to keep the originality in mind. The fit is a crucial element for any ensemble. The way it falls due to the fabric used is very important. Body types matter a lot when it comes to the ’40s style suit. Suits and coats always can be pulled off in a great way when the person wearing them is confident and comfortable,” says designer Arpita Mehta. 

Designer Paresh Lamba seconds that, he says, “People who love vintage can carry it off by sticking to a monochromatic colour palette for the fabric. Avoiding too many hues will make it look less of a costume. Improvising on the fit will help you pull it off with confidence. Choosing the right, but minimal accessories will give a sense of balance and detail to the look.” 

STYLE IT WELL

Designer Swapna Anumolu of label Mishru says, “The ’40s styles suit can be paired with a well-fitted shirt or a pencil suit giving it an elegant vintage look. Pleated pants, a wide-collar shirt teamed with a tie will work wonders when paired with a suit.”

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