Men’s Fall Winter 19 shows focus on black tailoring at the recently concluded Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks
Nothing beats the classic noir suit — it’s a timeless classic and often a palate-cleanser, when one wants to take a break from the maximalist pieces in one’s closet. For Fall 19, designer Kim Jones at Dior Men presented his models in an array of uber-luxe suits wrapped with a statement sash as they stood on a conveyor belt instead of walking the ramp. Black on black layering was also seen on the runways of Neil Barrett, Dolce & Gabbana, DSquared 2, Versace and Pal Zileri. Prada — always the bellwether of the season — sent out a three-button blazer, which was worn with a buckled belt tied nonchalantly around the waist. Stylist Isha Bhansali sees it as a key ’90s trend with designers experimenting with pitch black. “What strikes me about these looks is the fact that it’s a saturated hue of stark black. I like the gold trimmings in the Versace look, but the Prada suit is my favourite,” says Isha. Usually wearing black is equated with blending in, but these visually-sumptuous variations are meant to stand out. “It’s a study on how to wear different elements of black in one look. These pieces are something which will suit any age or size,” adds Isha.
Projects a strong personality
The severity of black make these ensembles rather powerful and also depict a formidable personality. Stylist Divyak D’Souza observes that menswear trends are based on different personality types, of late. “It’s about who you are, and what your personality is. Gucci has been a pioneer in this movement. It’s great to see designers exemplifying the play of contrasting textures and luxury tailoring in multiple ways. The black suit is a good investment and one could mix and match the textures depending on the weather,” says Divyak.
Sportifed edge
Noir tailoring has always been the holy grail in menswear — Raf Simons’ revival of the skinny black suit at Jil Sander back in the day, comes to mind. Designer Gaurav Khanijo points out that for Autumn-Winter 19, the suit length has been reduced and the vibe is edgy and sporty. This season saw sharp lines, cuts with jacket sleeves and length getting shorter which complements the edited lapels,” says Gaurav.
A versatile essential
Today everyone’s looking to inculcate versatile pieces in their closet and invest in separates, which could be paired with a million things. Designer Kunal Rawal observes that these pieces work for parties, black tie and multiple occasions. “Black is my favourite colour and I am always dressed in it. My dream wardrobe would comprise eight different suits in this tone. Also, it’s value for your buck,” says Kunal.
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