Served up succulently!

Food roundup Part II: On the eateries and foods that made a mark with respect to taste, service and ambience...

By far the best meal of the year this year for Belly Dance was Wasabi. The high quality Japanese restaurant of the Taj was damaged in the terror attacks of 2008 and re-opened this year to reclaim its place at the top of the food chain.

Stylish, well-crafted down to the smallest detail and simply mind-blowing in its flavours, Wasabi is worth every penny of its very high rates. The sad thing is that many food lovers and connoisseurs who have neither fat expense accounts nor basic fat wallets may be denied such pleasures. If you are saving for an iPad maybe wait a bit longer and treat yourself to a Wasabi meal
instead.

The next winner of the year would be Tote on The Turf at the race course. From the days of Just Desserts in the dim and distant past, Rahul Akerkar has managed to seduce our taste buds. Of course, in keeping with the spirit of the times, where life in Mumbai is all about events and PR-driven parties (it is unfair to call it the Radia effect because schmoozing certainly pre-dates her incredible foray into the world of India’s movers and shakers), Tote and Akerkar’s signature restaurant Indigo are also all about happening people and their doings. If this distracts from the food then this is most unfortunate. Because it is, truly, superb.

On a slightly different note was Banana Leaf in Juhu. This is a vegetarian South Indian eaterie which offers a wide range of cuisine which goes beyond idlis and dosas - and it does a neat selection of those as well. You walk out feeling stuffed and satisfied in that good old Indian style. Also on the south of the Vindhyas trail was Rice Boat in Bandra East for some excellent Malayalee food and a return to that old favourite Cafe Deluxe in Fort, also for Malayalee food.

Back at the top of the luxury trail was Fenix at the New Oberoi — again, it saw terrible scenes in its earlier identity as Tiffins during the 2008 terror attacks. The bravery of the staff at the Taj and the Oberoi, their work ethic and pride in their hotels is to be commended. At Fenix, the food is of a consistently good quality and the desserts are an absolute dream.

Botticino, at the Trident at Bandra Kurla Complex (or BKC, as auto drivers have repeatedly corrected me) stood out for its service and the stupendous Tuscan goose liver starter.

I would add Chez Vous which has just opened at what used to be Sundance because with its French cuisine, it brings a breath of fresh air to Mumbai and Olive at the race-course, for some good food and atmosphere. Also Jiggs Kalra’s Punjab Grill at Phoenix Mills for its rich, sumptuous groaning-with-greed experience.

Looking at this list, I am not surprised to see so many five star or high end eateries on the list. The Mumbai which once took pride in the fact that its standalone fine dining restaurants stood neck and neck with their five star counterparts has practically faded away. So has the other Mumbai where middle and low level eateries provided you with some tongue-tickling, fabulous meals. Is it because with liberalisation we have started catering only to one palate — that of the neo-rich — or because we’re suffering from a crisis of confidence?

Here’s to a wonderful 2011 and some great eating. As usual, the reviews are done incognito.