Couture: a cliche in India

In a country where couture is synonymous with anything extravagant and ornate, what’s the relevance of a couture week? Do Indian designers produce the finest quality products, which merit the couture coinage? Does embossing a tulle lehenga with reams and reams of sequins qualify it to be called a work of couture. We spoke to some of our leading fashion lights in an attempt to fathom the purity of Haute Couture and its relevance in India’s fashion scene.

Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI
Technically you’re right and given by your logic, the only person who can call himself a couturier is Manish Arora, who is a member of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Francaise. However, the industry develops and evolves only when we create opportunities like the couture week. I think some of the Indian designers have improved the quality of their products over the years. Did you know who Gaurav Gupta was three years ago? Today he is strongly established.

Earlier Varun Bahl was synonymous with structured silhouettes and prêt but today his menswear line with Karan Johar is well respected. Couture also means making garments using the finest techniques for somebody with great attention to detail. I know of some of the socialites who never went to design schools, who hire four tailors and open stores and call themselves ‘designers’. I protest that. Instead of them, I’d rather have designers showcase, who have spent decades in the business and have loyal clients. Also, my question is – will prêt last with the onslaught of ZARA, Marks & Spencer and Mango?

Neena Haridas, Editor, Marie Claire
In India, couture is loosely used for any high-end line which is custom-made. The common understanding of couture is something which is expensive, festive and with too many embellishments. I would blame some of our respected designers for misusing the word “couture”. One should understand the difference between prêt-à-porter, diffusion and haute couture. In India it’s mostly LHC (Lehenga Choli Couture).

Suneet Varma, Fashion Designer
Haute Couture in an official capacity needs to be approved by Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Francaise and that is because of its requirements of the atelier. I know this cause of my work experience at YSL at the beginning of my career. The Chambre has a minimum requirement of the number of seamstresses, hand embroidery facility and most of the garments need to be hand sewn in the old fashioned way.

Most couture buyers in Paris have to sit for seven to 10 fittings even for a simple straight tweed skirt and jacket. So it’s very hard to take India as an example.

Most Indian factories and designers have 100 or more hand embroiders in-house, but we may not have the garments hand sewn but we will spend over a few thousand hours in embellishments etc. If we were to go technically and by the approval of the Syndicale then no label in India or anywhere else outside of France can say they do couture. But yes, many labels in India and other countries are doing wonderful, splendid clothing that can be termed as Haute Couture.

Wendell Rodricks, Fashion Designer
Couture in India has become shaadi bazaar. When it meets all the rules laid down by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Francaise. To begin with, one must have a studio or atelier in Paris. There are many other rules that stipulate how many times a year one must show, how many persons must be employed and how many ensembles must be in the collection. Quite frankly none. We are all glorified tailors. We cannot claim this title of couture at all. It is a Western concept based in France and our ‘couture’ designers are impostors posturing like they are doing Haute Couture.