‘Kangana is my muse in the true sense’: Designer Neeta Lulla on working with the Manikarnika actress

Manikarnika: The Queen of Jhansi’s trailer is already the talk of the town. The film sees Kangana Ranaut’s Rani of Jhansi in four distinctive looks — each steeped in symbolism and emotion. The colours, silhouettes, jewellery and textiles reflect each phase of the warrior queen’s epochal journey. 

Costume and fashion designer Neeta Lulla, who evokes the larger-than-life ensemble epiphany yet again, says, “Before the marriage, when one sees her shooting a tiger,  I’ve used pretty pastels and light tints. When she gets married, I’ve amped up the actual vegetable dyes giving them more definition and the queen look is steeped in regalia where she’s seen in achkans. And in the last phase, the shades go pale and I’ve toned down the dyes.”

One’s keen to ask about the research methods that went into bringing such an illustrated iconic freedom fighter on silver screen. “The primary source was the libraries and books. It started with the director giving me an insight. I listened to the script and worked on the characterisation with research from libraries. The visual references and images came from there. The last source was the internet,” recalls Neeta.

KANGANA: MY MUSE

Neeta has worked in a plethora of celebrated period films in the past — be it Devdas (2002) or Jodhaa Akbar (2008). And, Kangana is her muse of the moment. “Working with Kangana has been exciting and satisfying. Rani Laxmibai was a feisty woman, who knew her mind, and battled against all odds — the way she carried her child on her back and the way she fought. The only person who could do justice to her was Kangana, who has a convincing ability. The sheer magnanimity of clothing and the visual appeal — Kangana carried it off effortlessly taking it to another level. If I set up the look and the colour combo, she would never doubt it and wear it. I believe that a look is complete only when the person carries it off confidently. She’s my muse in the true sense. When I would meet her at her house, I’d realise that we both shared similar style sensibilities — we both like Breakfast At Tiffany’s and Frida Kahlo. Our synergies matched,” says Neeta. When I ask her about her favourite look in the film, she says, “My favourite is the black sari and also her khadi looks.” 

A sketch of Manikarnika

CREATING THE 12-VAARI

Watching the trailer, one can deduce that there are a lot of sari draping styles derived from both Maharashtra and MP. “I have used nine yards sari —the navvaari, given it a new dimension and called it a 12-vaari. We tied up with the Khadi Gram Udyog to use khadi saris and kurtas for other characters. We’ve toyed with different textures and weights of the khadi. People think khadi is very stiff, but it lends itself to beautiful drape-ability. All of Kangana’s saris were khadi. Amrapali custom-made all the jewellery for Kangana,” says Neeta. 

BELIEVABLE YET GLAM

Many designers are accused of not being authentic in period drama, but Neeta has always managed to nail it. “Essentially, I try to keep it believable as far as the characterisation is concerned yet create a regal appeal. Nothing beyond that. We’ve used fine silks and 12-yards sari to create a visual impact. I had handcrafted and cut her armour myself,” says the designer who likes to cut her own jackets.