From the screen to the ramp to royal families across the world, the men’s suit has traveled far and wide DNA traces the ensemble’s steps.
The most prized piece of clothing, the suit is treasured by every man. It can entirely define the person wearing it, and has done so for quite a long time now — 150 years to be precise. However, while it might be old, the suit is definitely immortal! Originally tailored for men in the armed forces, the suit has changed its form over the years, dressing men for the boardroom and even the nightclub. Naveen Pische, partner at PN Rao, Bangalore’s premier suit-makers takes us on a memorable trip.
The 1800s
This was when early versions of the suit saw mix and match orientation. Long trousers replaced knee-length breeches; vests outdated long waistcoats and overcoats. This was also when the top hat became an essential accessory.
The 1920s and 1930s
This period witnessed men looking at dressing from two points of view — what to wear during the day and what to be seen in when the sun went down. This was when double breasted suits came into their own, with hats as a crowning glory. The suit also took on a broader profile at the shoulders and tapered in at the waist.
The 1940s and 1950s
During this time, wardrobes saw a clear shift from formal styling, to casual overtones. Interestingly, waistlines went higher — as seen in the Zoot Suit. The post war years also saw the emergence of cardigans, tropical shirts and polos.
The 1960s and 1970s
This period saw a patchwork quilt in terms of trends, especially with the flower child generation seeking new expressions. This was also when the business suit emerged with a design intent — sporting a narrower, close fitting look. The departure from conservative shades was another visible trend during these times.
The 1980s and 1990s
This was clearly a time, when the lounge suit had to rub shoulders with jeans and tees in men’s wardrobes — casual wear was now serious business. Interestingly, the suit was also trying to get an identity of its own — with pinstripes, navies and corporate dress codes.
2000 and beyond
All the good work done during the early years in design labs was now getting under the spotlight. This is when form and function got the advantage of superior fabrics, blends and functional attributes. The art and science of designing a suit crossed new frontiers and walked down ramps in the fashion capitals of the world.
Today, there’s a refreshing style variation as soon as you turn the corner of the season’s best. And as we watch new profiles emerge and exciting contours take centre stage, it’s nice to feel that we’re part of the picture. This is a good time, indeed to celebrate 150 years of the suit.
Through the ages, a great degree of importance has been placed on one’s attire and aptness. Keeping with the times, trends and evolution of smart dressing, men have experimented with suits to their maximum sense of awe and satisfaction. Suits across various time periods have defined the code of dressing for the sophisticated class.
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