One has to be firmly rooted in the past as one embraces the future.
Handmade garment is for eternity
Rahul Mishra
Eco friendly or organic is purely out of choice. It can be a textile but may not be organic. It depends on what the designer's objective is. I was with the minister of textile recently and realised that the organic or silk fabric we make in handloom is a very little part of the entire textile industry. The majority is running on polyester.
We showcase a lot of textiles in India but in Paris, we showcase three dimensional collections, which is a combination of textile and tactile. Our thread embroidery is handmade. We believe in an aesthetic which is cut by human hand and has a special feeling - anything that slows down the process of garment making.
A majority of the market is still about the fast produced textiles. However, nothing beats a beautifully woven garment and the slowness of the process and the details achieved by human hands is incomparable. Fashion critics Suzy Menkes asked me about the 3 d printing in my Paris Fashion Week collection and I told her about the fourth dimension which is added by human touch and detailing. Handmade textiles create employment and wearable art. Otherwise everything is mechanised and the question is - how do you create uniqueness. It is better to produce less and it shouldn't be just about production and consumption. The production should empower participation.
One has to be firmly rooted in the past as one embraces the future. When it's too tech driven, it sounds like a fad and one is worried about when is the next thing going to come. A handmade garment is for eternity. Three d technology is becoming a day to day thing so there's no surprise about it. In fact, neoprene is no longer new.
3 d pieces best for evening
Anand Bhushan
There are so many creative things you can do with textiles. We experiment with metal, steel fabrics which are durable and look beautiful at the same time. Clever use of plastic in pieces is another great idea. The copper binding I did in one of my collections made it stood out and also the inclusion of glass pieces into the fabric made the look tactile, alluring and more exciting. Surface gets more exciting for the new-age designers, who are using technologies like 3 D printing which make an outfit appear almost like a piece of art. Over a period of time, designers have changed gears thanks to the evolution of a new lifestyle and technology and sustainability in fashion has becomes slowly mainstream.
An individual whose personality is quite out there is likely to be inclined towards a garment which has a 3 D appeal than a textile piece. Nothing works for evening glamour more than 3 d textured pieces. Three dimensionality has always been exciting for Indian fashion, for example, zardozi and dabka work. We're trying to contemporise it. Zardozi is all metal and when you say, 'metal', it doesn't mean a space thing. The neoprene comes to mind which is easy to tailor and feels so nice, however, I feel it's been bastaradised a bit too much now. The laser cut technology has given fashion newer dimension in terms of maneuvering and moulding fabrics to create surfaces. Technology has made fashion more tactile and one sees an emergence of this umbrella movement which may appear underground now but is definitely the future.
(As told to Manish Mishra)
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