From truffle oil to trifle

There was a time when truffle oil was sparingly used in five star eateries. That was back in the 80s when people started getting exposed to its distinct flavour. With changing times, what was once exotic has now become a fairly common ingredient, available to everyone including home cooks. Chef Phuong Tran, executive chef, Ellipsis, tells you why. He says, “Truffle oil is rather overused and is abundantly available in all parts of the world. The nose (aromatic properties) and flavour profile has been replicated in laboratories into a synthetic element and introduced into oils as a flavouring agent, thus making something that was once exoticcommon and saturating the truffle oil market.”

Flavour profile of truffle fungi v/s truffle oil

So, while truffle oil has lost its exotic value, that’s not the case with the prized fungi, which is still highly in demand according to Chef Phuong Tran, who adds, “Truffle fungi is still a prized ingredient  and the reason for that is that it has a rich Umami. The fifth flavour element is a rare find that often times, only nature can produce.” That also probably explains why it is still foraged in the time honoured methods of hunting dogs or pigs.  “Also, for professionals who work with truffles on a daily basis, distinguishing it from its manufactured component is quite easy. As for the dining public, some can discern between the two, and often are nauseated by the smell and repulsed by the taste,” he explains.

Chef Ranveer Brar, agrees and adds, “I am not much of a fan of ready truffle oil. I make my own truffle oil with alba truffles and use it. I love how it adds a whiff of umami to every dish and I have used it for the same in the cappuccinos that we serve at TAG Gourmart Kitchen.”

Not to be trifled with

Amit Chowdhury, executive chef, The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, says, “We have been using truffle oil to prepare asparagus cappuccino for more than two decades at the Zodiac Grill and it continues to be a part of the Chambers menu at the hotel. He adds, “Apart from the Asparagus Cappuccino, we also use it to make a Brie and Truffle Naan, Wild Mushroom Truffle Risotto, Truffle Hummus, and an interesting chocolate called Truffle-Truffle. Truffle oil easily imparts a luxurious truffle flavour and aroma when sprinkled lightly over a dish just before serving, benefiting the likes of soups, risottos, sauces for pasta and salads.

Telling the original from the fakes

Chef Dubey from Hoppipola, says, “Originally, truffle oil was high-quality olive oil infused with black or white truffles, but today, most of the stuff is made synthetically with ingredients like dithiapentane, an aromatic molecule that gives truffles their distinctive smell. Some people love the oil, but a lot of chefs despise it. If you want to tell a fake from a real one, simply  check the label. It will list olive oil and truffle, not “truffle essence” or “natural flavours.” Also, you won’t see any floating bits of desiccated truffle.”

Chef Dubey’s tips to using truffle oil right

Best way to use truffle is to hold the bottle in one hand and a spoon in the other before you drizzle droplets on scrambled eggs, gnocchi, mac and cheese or any dish for that matter. But if you really want to experience true truffle oil, make truffle butter.

Did you know?

American talkshow host Oprah Winfrey’s love for truffles is well-known. She carries around truffle salt in her purse, and adds the mushroom’s pungent taste to everything she eats.