On Maha Shivratri, this Muslim cabbie's recollection of celebrating in Varanasi is true reflection of India

Forty years ago, Kallan Ali came to Mumbai from Varanasi and has been working in the city as a taxi driver since then. When this reporter travelled in his kaali-peeli on Maha Shivratri, Kallan Ali recalled the festivities celebrated in his hometown.

Driving the taxi in Mumbai has meant fewer opportunities for this 64-year-old to return home to celebrate the festival.

“Whenever I am presented with the opportunity, I go home. Memories of Varanasi involve people singing Kabir songs and Ustad Bismillah Khan on the shehnai welcoming devotees to the Kashi Vishwanath temple,” he recalls.

The festivities that lasted a day, witnessed both Hindus and Muslims participating with great gusto and fanfare during the evening mela. “People from across socio-economic backgrounds attended the event to buy utensils, food, and articles of daily use,” he recalls, adding that the highlight was the evening dance and nautanki performance.

The festival, Ali says, brought people together for the Biraha performance. A folk music genre of Uttar Pradesh popular amongst the state’s farmers and daily labourers, Biraha, Ali recalls, was usually sung by his friend Hyder Ali. “He would sing praises of Lord Shiva during the Maha Shivratri performances. He died many years ago, but the tradition lives on,” he said.

Despite living for 40 years in Mumbai, Maha Shivratri traditions is what has kept Ali connected to his hometown. The day triggers fond memories of a bygone past.