An old-world Kenyan village

For some, a tribal village in Kenya conjures up images of men and women dancing around naked with leaves covering strategic parts.

However, you will be sorely disappointed if that is one of your expectations. On an eight day trip to Kenya, I had the good fortune of visiting a Maasai tribal village, with a population of over 200 men and women.

The Maasai tribe is one of the largest in Kenya and they are known by the remarkable appearance of their warriors, with their red clothing, intricate beaded jewellery, and a rich culture.

As we reached the village, a young Maasai introduced himself as our guide in surprisingly fluent English. He was dressed in a resplendent red and white cotton shawl worn over one shoulder with beaded jewellery adorning his neck and arms. With a wide grin, he invited us to call him by his English name — Leonard.

As we continued into the village, a dozen Maasai warriors dressed in red and carrying long sticks started humming and shouting. One by one, the Maasai warriors came forward and jumped while humming songs in their native tongue. We were astonished to see them jump as high as the quick footed gazelles that abounded Africa.

Our guide, Leonard, explained that it was a welcome dance ritual reserved for guests who come from far. Just as the men brought their dance to a flourishing halt, the women dressed in colourful cotton prints, came out holding each other’s hands. Singing merrily, they pulled us inside the village compound.

All of a sudden, we saw a fence of sticks, with mud houses constructed within the boundary. The village was housed in the vast Masai Mara forest where lions, rhinos, wild elephants shared space with them. The walls of the houses were built with dried cow dung.

We met a 117-year-old Maasai woman, one of the oldest in the tribe. They attribute their longevity and good health to their diet and a glass of cow blood everyday. Leonard explained that they cut a specific vein of a cow and collect the blood. Later on they heal the wound with herbs and salves and the same cow will not be touched for another six months to replenish their blood supply.

While others were merrily clicking photographs with the warriors, I tried to converse with a tall fierce looking Maasai. In broken English, he explained that he had successfully completed his initiation and has been recruited as a warrior.

Seeing my curiosity, he explained that all Maasai men have to undergo an initiation period once they turn 16. A group of boys are sent out in the bush with weapons to kill a lion. Upon a successful kill, the boys are declared “warriors”. I was astonished to know that the practice still continues. Leonard explained that the Kenyan government permits them to carry on the tradition.

Meanwhile, I was gently led by a Maasai man to a corner within the village where beaded jewellery made by the women, wooden carvings, drawings and paintings were laid out for tourists to buy. I was made to understand that prices are negotiable and was escorted by a Maasai who had a bright yellow cloth tied around his shoulder.

Being a Mumbaikar, I took to bargaining like a fish to water. The Maasai men even complimented me on my bargaining skills and consented to pose with me for a photograph.

While saying my farewells, the Maasai who posed with us after shopping said that he was willing to give my mother 10 cows in exchange for my hand in marriage. I did not give my mother the chance to make that decision! Unlike India’s dowry system, the men give a bride price of two or more cows to the girl’s family.

In a world that is in a hurry to forget its roots, it was heartening to see the Maasai maintaining their age-old traditions. However, in many ways, they have adjusted to the changing times and send their young children to school and college. Yet, we saw that the Maasai people were not tempted with the comforts luxury could bring. They still lit fire by rubbing sticks together and slept under the starry African sky which remains
unmarred by polluted grey smog.