The low-down on some of the key looks from menswear shows in the French capital.
Outwear seems to be the strong, dominant presence across the Parisian runways - be it Raf Simon's artful, Indie collection where the long coats almost grazed the floor or the cloaks and ponchos at Christophe Lemaire. Cropped trousers with hems that ended two inches above the shoes seem to be the recurring presence all over. While Valentino's showcased geometric colour-blocked pieces, Alexander Wang at Balenciaga seduced us with his masterfully engineered cocoon coat. Designer Walter Van Beirendonck sent out a strong message with models wearing slogans - Stop terrorising our world.
Valentino
Inspiration: Melbourne-based artist, Esther Stewart's geometric colour-blocked paintings
Highlights: The collection was high on embroidery motifs - be it the midnight moths on a dark blue jacket, the map of the planets on a blouson and an owl motif. The colour blocked leather jackets paired with the sweaters in the same colour blocked tones created a visually arresting assault. Richly toned leather hand gloves and colour blocked backpacks completed the looks.
Raf Simons
Vibe: Indie
Highlights: Raf Simons is known for for his artistic collaboration - the Ruby Sterling line last year comes to mind. Graffitti, doodles and slogans were printed on long floor-length coats and gilets. There were bold metallic coats in red and black which came with medallion zippers. Vibrant turtlenecks worn under the long coats stood out and so were leather wrist bands.
Balenciaga
Vibe: Monastic
Highlights: There was a major push on construction and tailoring techniques evident in the opening piece - the cocoon coat. A twice knit, cowled long coat gave an illusion of pebbles while a gray knit jacquard ensemble looked like a hilly terrain. A wool, nylon sweatshirt with a body made of hand-cut meshed astrakhan stood out.
Christophe Lemaire
Inspiration: Alexandre, a protagonist played by Jean-Pierre Léaud in La Maman et la Putain.
Highlights: The outwear was the key focus - overcoat, double-breasted peacoats, cloaks, ponchos and a cape coat. The refined and mild-toned presentation saw a pale-blue safari jacket, an eight-button peacoat and a shoulder-robed herringbone overcoat. The trousers were cropped two inches above the boots evoking a retro vibe.
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