The flavours of Konkan

Sometime last year, the spouse and I decided to take a road trip down the Konkan coast of Maharashtra. Being hardcore seafood lovers, it never occurred to us to try out the delectable vegetarian fare available on the route. So when the JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar decided to host a Kokanastha Brahmin Food Festival at their multi-cuisine restaurant JW Cafe, it was a no-brainer that we just had to try out the food.

The aroma of the spread in front of us was enough to make our mouths water and we wouldn’t wait to get started. But more than that, we were also curious to know some more about the Kokanastha Brahmin community and their cuisine. Executive chef Vishal Atreya, who undertook a three-day journey along with other chefs from the restaurant to the Konkan coast of Maharashtra including Guhagar and Diveagar, was only too pleased to share his experience with us. Delving a bit into history, the chef told us about the spice trade that used to take place between Israel and India. “Once there was a ship-wreck and a few Israeli sailors got left behind in Goa. They adopted Hinduism and the Kokanastha Brahmins have their lineage there,” he explained, adding there are many other stories, some mythological, about the community as well.

Visiting Guhagar and Diveagar gave the chefs a chance to know more about the cuisine. “We came back with a treasure trove of recipes and stories,” he says, recounting the experience of staying with the people from the community, exploring the local dishes and learning more about the eating habits of the Kokanastha Brahmins, or Kobras, as they like to call themselves. Most homes, he recounted, had rice, coconut and supari growing in their backyards. Fresh coconut, light curries and jaggery find their place in the Kobra cuisine while  onion and garlic are commonly given a miss.

But believe us, we didn’t miss the presence of onion and garlic as we finally got a chance to taste the delicious fare, which is available till May 15. The Kajuchi Usal was light and creamy while the Fanaschi Bhaji with its use of jaggery, tamarind pulp and fresh grated coconut was delicious. The flavours were subtle and nowhere did the spices overpower the flavour of the vegetables. The Raw Mango chutney, Batata Papad and sweet Lime Pickle only helped enhance the taste of the dishes, while the Masale Bhaat and Varan was comfort food at its best. The Aambe Bhaat, rice flavoured with mango, was the perfect end to a delicious meal. But how could we leave without a bowlful (or two!) of Aamras! Aah, pure heaven!  

Kajuchi Usal  

Ingredients

60 Fresh cashewnuts                                           
1 cup Fresh grated coconut                                     
1/4 cup Coriander leaves                                             
1 tsp Cumin seed                                                    
1 tsp Mustard seed                                                
1 Potato diced                                               
1 medium Onion chopped                                               
1 large Tomato cut into cubes                                                
1 tbsp Goda masala                                                   
1 tsp Turmeric powder                                           
Red chili powder to taste Salt to taste
2 tbsp Refined oil                                                      
1 tbsp Jaggery                                                           
1/4 Asafoetida                                                      
1 tbsp Tamarind pulp  

Method

Take oil in a pan. Add cumin and mustard seeds. Add chopped onion, tomato cubes, chili powder, turmeric powder and potato dice. Grind fresh coriander and fresh grated coconut. Add this paste. Sauté for 2 mins. Add fresh cashewnut in it.  Put tamarind pulp, goda masala, jaggery, coconut milk and salt to taste. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve.

Fansachi Bhaji

Ingredients

2 cups Jack Fruit (small cubes)   
6 whole Chillies 
1/2 tsp Asafoetida                                           
1 tsp Cumin seeds
1tsp Mustard seeds
2 tbsp Refined oil
1 tbsp Tamarind pulp 
1 cup Fresh grated coconut        
1/2 tsp Turmeric powder                                
Salt to taste
1 tbsp Jaggery                                                

Method

Take oil in a pan. Add cumin and mustard seeds. Let it crackle. Add whole red chilly, turmeric powder and asafoetida.

Boil the jack fruit cubes. Add boiled jackfruit, sauté and add tamarind pulp. Add grated coconut and salt to taste. Cover the pan and let the vegetables cook for five minutes. Garnish with fresh grated coconut, red chili and fresh coriander and serve.