The devil's workshop

Theatre ticket in London or New York can cost you anything between $20 to $100. It’s not exactly cheap, but in exchange for that precious foreign exchange, what you get when you go to a theatre abroad is an experience. Imagine watching a play in what used to be a chocolate factory, sitting in an auditorium that’s lit by an enormous, antique chandelier, or sitting within spitting distance of actors like Benedict Cumberbatch and Scarlett Johansson as they strut their stuff on stage. The reason audiences are willing to shell out as much as $100 to see a play is the same as what makes cinema and television stars eager to work for months on plays — it’s a tradition.

Much of theatre’s charm comes from its history. Centuries ago, the people who made it a profession were all mavericks and drunks. Backstage, it was all vice, debt and chaos. No wonder it was often known as ‘the devil’s workshop’. On stage was poetry, lyricism and spectacle that entertained both kings and commoners. Many of Europe’s old playhouses have been lovingly restored and maintained as reminders of how the magic of theatre was once conjured. Step inside these gorgeous, ancient theatres and they’re still as enchanting as ever.

El Corral, Spain
Alcala de Henares is known as the birthplace of author Miguel de Cervantes. Despite the fact that Cervantes left Alcala de Henares while he was just a toddler, his birthplace has capitalised on this association. But rather than get lured by Cervantes-themed museums and recreations, walk over to the El Corral theatre on the main town square.

The El Corral has a sleek, modern exterior. Inside, you are transported to the 1600s. The low-hanging wooden ceiling is held up by weathered-looking beams and rows of red chairs curved around a small, wooden stage. The emphasis of the restoration has been on functionality — locally written and produced plays are shown here twice a week.

It’s the old-fashioned charms, however, that enjoy the limelight. Below the stage is a small, cramped space seemingly meant to cater to Hobbit-sized stagehands. Within is one of the more fascinating tools innovated for sound effects: twenty rocks enclosed in a barrel, with a handle to spin it. “If you spin it slowly, like this,” says the caretaker, demonstrating, “It sounds like a horse. A little faster, and it’s thunder!”

THE Globe, Britain
A disheartened William Shakespeare left London and stopped writing plays after the original Globe theatre burnt down in 1613. The present version of the original Globe has painstakingly recreated the original structure, including details such as a thatched roof and wooden beams. Performances replicate those performed in Elizabethan times — no modern musical instruments or artificial lighting is used.

Watching The Taming of The Shrew from the “pit”, I’m one of those who used to be called “groundlings”, the common folk of the Elizabethan era who would for the cheap price of a penny heckle actors from this vantage point. Forget being posh and opt for the pit. Not only does it feel richly historical, it also has the best view of the action on stage.

Municipal Theatre, Italy
The unromantically termed Municipal Theatre in San Giovanni in Persiceto, a town in the Italian province of Bologna, is one of the most gorgeous theatrical spaces you’ll see. One of the oldest theatrical spaces in Italy, Municipal Theatre was used as a grain store during World War I, then as a cinema hall and was damaged during World War II. Today, the theatre is an explosion of opulence, with baroque elements like ornately painted and gilded rows, glittering chandeliers and heavy velvet curtains.

Rebuilt in 1790, the theatre is known for being the inauguration spot for one of Verdi’s operas and many of his lyrical opera pieces continue to be performed here. Operas are performed here weekly, and though you might not understand the Italian, opera’s melodramatic expressions will not let much get lost in translation.

Georgian Theatre Royal, Britain

The Georgian Theatre Royal in North Yorkshire represents an old trend amongst travelling theatre groups in Britain. Where they found no theatres, they built one so that they could return to perform there. The staid exteriors of this 1788 theatre conceal a small, well-kept theatre. A painted scenery depicts a countryside scene, complete with frolicking rabbits.

The Georgian Theatre Royal is Britain’s oldest working theatre to retain its original form. The theatre boasts of having retained its original wooden floor boards, which have creaked under the weight of many great British actors.

“Kicking boards”, which 18th century audience members would use to demonstrate their critical disappointment with a foot-stamp, still survive. But there’s no recreating the original experience — the kicking boards have been disabled so critics have to find other ways of expressing themselves. Even without such enjoyable expression of creative criticism, spending a few hours in the devil’s workshop without the trouble of going to hell, can be an instructive sort of nostalgia.