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Style Focus: Don't buy it because it's on the runway'

Designer Sanjay Garg on showcasing at the iconic Opera house...

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A look from Sanjay Garg’s new line
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Sanjay Garg, who has transfixed the style set with his play of monkey and cow motifs in the past, has shifted his focus on Cloud People (angelic insignia derived from myriad mythologies) this season. The Raw Mango designer pushes the envelope to venture into chikankari embroidery with his Lakmé Fashion Week’s opening night show. The handcrafted chikankari on Bengal mul, zardozi and handwoven brocade form the core of this outing. Over to the designer... 

How does it feel to showcase at Opera House?

Amazing. What else can we ask for? When I saw it for the first time, I was struck by the many layers of history and culture it holds. I love everything about it. Having said that, I want the whole emphasis to be on clothes. The showcase will have a musical performance vibe.

Will it be the Indian version of the Opera? 

In North of India, it’s called the tamasha which sees many parallel stories being sung, for example, The Mahabharata. To me it’s on those lines. I won’t call it ‘the Indian version of the Opera’. We are experimenting with the music this time and planning to take the showcase several notches up.

You’re also transitioning from textile to embroidery. Comment. 

Embroidery to me is like the second skin. There will be brocade for sure this time. However, what I have felt over the years is that fashion is often partial to weavers and embroiders don’t get their due. I’m of the belief that artisans are artisans. Period.

Benarasi brocade has been used and abused it. Comment. 

The moot point is — if people are wearing it because it’s a fad or are they really interested in it? If it’s because it’s being showcased at fashion weeks then that worries me. I’d like people to understand the cut-work and what’s special about it. Not every piece of handloom is a beautiful fabric. You need to ask yourself — whether you are going to wear it or not. Don’t buy it because of fashion week or sympathy for the weavers.

What are the new motifs this time? 

All I can say at this point is chikankari is usually synonymous with paisley motifs and we’ve done much more than that. The motifs will be unmissable for sure.

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