After Hrs traces the evolution of the Neo Punk in menswear...
It’s noteworthy how the subversive punk resurfaces decade after decade in fashion — sometimes thumbing his nose at the clichéd notions of bourgeois dressing and other times, revolting against the prevalent socio-economic turmoil. Over the last few seasons, the Neo Punk has been stomping its insouciant feet through the racks of ready-to-wear with Gucci’s Alessandro Michele sending out his eccentric models in studded bombers and acid-washed denims. Demna Gvasalia at Vetements re-imagined the gay punk dude by dressing his models head-to-toe in acid green coupled with a gravity-defying spiky hair-do.
Sandeep Gonsalves, Founder, SS Homme says, “The boom of acid-washed garments are not only limited to jeans, but a lot of it is also seen on trucker jackets and bombers. It is the element of eccentricity which drives designers to come up with creations for stars such as Drake, Kanye West and Kendrick Lamar.”
Back home, designers Falguni & Shane Peacock and Siddartha Tytler redefined the punk carnality by recontextualising rebel chic in their own handwriting. The FSP dude loves his ruffled trimmed bombers, Sid Tytler’s boys have a penchant for sequinned pants and statement hoodies.
Siddartha says, “The new-age rebel is someone who is fierce and confident in his skin; someone who loves his individuality and knows how to express as who he truly is!” His Autumn Winter’18 collection titled, F.U.S.S. derived inspiration from the bombastic ’80s and he employed ostrich feathers, leather detailing and laser cut strips to shock and titillate.
Actor, singer and songwriter Jaden Smith shook the style arbiters out of their reverie by flashing his gold grill teeth and carrying his chopped dreadlocks in his pocket at the Met Gala last year. “Jaden is the coolest guy and doesn’t give a sh*t.
Today social media has made luxury more approachable. With a collaboration like Supreme and Louis Vuitton, one sees the emergence of the ath-couture category and millennials have urbanised it,” says designer Nikhil Mehra of label Shantanu & Nikhil.
THE COLLAB CLIMAX
The high street and luxe collaborations have added fuel to the rebel fire. “These collaborations are just the beginning. I see 3-D printing becoming four-dimensional. Haute couture was always associated with something classic and safe, but today one sees heritage marrying technology,” adds Nikhil.
TIME OF REBELLION
With anti-Trump and ‘Me Too’ protest movements gaining momentum over the world, a section of designers also attribute the Neo Punk resurgence to the socio-political unrest. Designer Gaurav Khanijo who recently showcased partially burnt pieces in his Lakme Fashion Week collection says, “Fashion isn’t uptight anymore and it’s cool to wear a hoodie under a suit and along with a pair of sneakers. There are no rules or boundaries. The millennials have the liberty and platform to voice their opinion which was never the case with those of us, who grew up in the 80s.”
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