Of crags, castles and caves

The rainy gloominess that we've been meted out on our first day in Wales adds a sense of mystique to Caerphilly Castle – the largest in Wales and second largest in Britain. The cold and rain can't stop us from wandering around the remains of this massive pennant-sandstone edifice. Treading carefully on the squelchy, but lush grass, we pass through the gatehouse, try clambering up a few slippery walls in the inner ward and explore it's great hall, hourd (wooden fighting platform) and towers, including the south-east leaning tower, which is believed to lean even more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. From the castle's rampart, we have a splendid view of the 13th century structure, and the surrounding series of moats and watery islands that were once part of the castle's fortifications. Built by Gilbert de Clare, Caerphilly Castle – a 20-minute drive from Cardiff – is known for its concentric ring of walls – a defence system unseen in Britain before.

The steep climb up the limestone crag to the remnants of Carreg Cennen Castle's outer fortifications, on tippy toes to avoid stepping on sheep poo pellets, is well worth the splendid view of green meadows speckled with fluffy sheep. If there was something that could make you catch and lose your breath simultaneously, this would be it! Located in Carmarthenshire, the castle was built in the late 12th century by a Welsh prince, but has been in ruins since 1461. But the ruins that remain today are that of an impressive fortress built by the English King Edward I. What's really exciting to explore, though, is the castle's cave in the south-east corner of the inner ward.

Down a flight of stairs, a narrow tunnel and yet another steep set of steps, we head into the bowels of the castle. "If you're heading down there, you'll need torches. Stick together. And stock up on food; you're going to be there for a while," a small group, who'd just explored the cave, warn us on their way out. I feel like we're living out one of Enid Blyton's Famous Five adventures, as we carefully make our way down the rugged path into the damp limestone cave, and the exterior world rapidly falls away into complete darkness. Twenty minutes later, at the end of the cave, is a freshwater spring.

We go from the smaller, hidden, non-touristy castle cave to the larger National Showcaves Centre for Wales in the Brecon Beacons National Park. While the Morgan brothers – who discovered the caves in 1912 – used candles and undertook dangerous climbs, the caves today are well-lit and are accessible to all. The first of the three caves – Dan yr Ogof – boasts of breathtaking formations, including the Alabaster Pillar, a stunning example of what happens when a stalacite and stalagmite grow together, after thousands of years. We are greeted by beautiful formations adorning Cathedral Cave's walls, where waterfalls cascade into underground lakes. But the highlight of our visit is the Dome of St Pauls. This chamber has a large lake fed by two 40-feet waterfalls. 42 human skeletons dating back to the Bronze Age were discovered in the Bone Cave, thus giving it it's name. Much smaller than the other two, its walls depict man's use of caves in the past and his struggle to survive alongside other cave inhabitants – hyenas, bears and wolves.

If the drive to Rhossili beach on the southwestern tip of the Gower Peninsula through green-leaved tunnels is breathtaking, I'd have to make up words to describe the view of the beach. Standing on the cliff, I finally understand Blyton's descriptions of fierce gales that swept some of her characters off the edge. The wind is probably not half as bad, but it's enough to lift me an inch off the ground, as we walk along the Rhossilli cliffs – fields and hedge banks on our left and a splendid view of the pristine three-mile long beach, on our right. A long, long walk later, we're at the coastguard lookout, from where we have a splendid view of a piece of land stretching out into the sea, called the Worms Head.

There's nothing better than a holiday straight out of a book!

Wales on your fingertips

Wales is bordered by England to the east, the Irish Sea to the north and west, and the British Channel to the south
Gilbert de Clare, who built Caerphilly Castle, was also known as Gilbert 'the Red' because of his red hair
It is believed that Carreg Cennen castle may have been occupied during the Iron Age and later, by the Romans
The name 'Worms Head' comes from the Nordic word 'Wurm', meaning serpent or dragon