Bold lettering splashed on T-shirts, jumpers and sweatshirts seems to be the major Spring story seen at Dolce & Gabbana, who made a case for freedom, MSGM who printed ‘WOW’ on a t-shirt, No 21’s jumper CAME emblazoned with ‘NONCHALANCE’ and Ports 1961’s jumper read — ‘Only Love Matters’. Another noteworthy story — oodles of abstract comic book prints seen at Prada.
JW Anderson
Inspiration: Tourists in Florence
Highlights
Easily one of the most pared-down, wearable outing from the designer known for exploring androgyny and subversive gender-bending designs season after season. For his Spring 2018 outing, Anderson sent out summer trench coats, wide-legged denims, hoodie sweatshirts, monochrome stripes and logo-flashing jumpers. The label also collaborated with Converse which added a glittery twist to the ensembles. The heart motif was generously sprinkled all across the line-up from the opening beige trench festooned with glittery hearts to green hearts spangled on a pin-striped trench. There was a push on clashing contrasting prints from head to toe and sportified layering.
Ermenegildo Zegna
Inspiration: Natural colour of vicuna — one of the label’s uber-luxe signatures.
Highlights
All eyes were set on designer Alessandro Sartori who joined the house last season and he didn’t disappoint. He transmogrified the courtyard of Milan’s Universita Satale into a futuristic garden by tinting it with explosive burnt orange. One felt a sense of softness, lightness with a focus on languid tailoring resulting in sporty blousons in micro-nubuck, ultra lightweight blazers and sweaters. From cappuccino beige to earthy cognac to sorbet pinks — colour play was the major story here. Striped jumpers, multi-pocketed jackets, suits teamed with baseball caps and utilitarian backpacks and contrasting knee-length jackets — evoked instant likability.
Marni
Inspiration: Sailboats and Hawaiian floral motifs
Highlights
Contrasting stripes, argyle checks, children’s doodles, florals, dots and cartoon prints were artfully collaged and clashed to create a wonderful tension — making each ensemble playful, retro-yet-of-the-moment. The sailboat print leather bag was a great accompaniment to a buttercup yellow shirt and matching trousers punctuated by two-toned shoes. A sailboat print shirt was layered with a white shirt of mismatched sleeves giving it a dishevelled-yet-alluring quality. A periwinkle blue suit worn over a knee-length striped jumper stood out and so did a pair of trousers with patches of cartoon prints.
Dolce & Gabbana
Inspiration: Insta influencers
Highlights
The designers cashed in on the lettering and logo mania currently raging by sending out hoodies and bombers emblazoned with “Protest”, “D&G GIVE ME FREEDOM” and “I AM NOT YOUR SCAPEGOAT”. The playing card king motif was the highpoint in the collection and made its presence felt on many ensembles. Besides their signature bling and animal prints, this line was heavy on Japanese motifs and imagery. The Dolce man never likes to be in a shadow and always manages to make an entrance no matter what — be it the tasselled and fringed, fully sequinned bomber or their closing tuxedo which came with a shimmery lapel.
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