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Heritage Hotel: Ahilya by the Sea, Goa

There's no dearth of mindlessly ostentatious luxury hotels in India, but Ahilya with its rich-in-heritage appeal is a gold mine for art lovers, feels Sonal Ved

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A quick walk from the aloof Coco beach and the beautiful Dolphin Bay, lies Ahilya By The Sea, a heritage-rich hotel in Goa. Built in 2006 by Leela Rao Ellis, a Goan who now lives in New York, Ahilya is a sight for the sore eyes, especially if you're a weary traveller looking for something beyond a clean bedroom and pretty balcony, while choosing a place to stay. That said, Ahilya has both. Living in this eight-room hotel is like an extended art walk–each wall and corner of the red-laterite rock villas, and garden displays metal and wooden sculptures; there are gargoyles by the poolside and worn-out wooden furniture is scattered across its well-manicured lawn.

Built to ensure that Leela could remain connected to her roots, the Rao-Ellis family initially curated this space to use it as a holiday home. But owing to compliments, followed by several homestay requests, they decided to open it up to well-heeled travellers. They aptly named it Ahilya By The Sea; the property is separated from the Arabian Sea merely by a high wall. Its architecture has Portuguese and Jacobean influences with sturdy balcãos or pillared porches, red-brick walls, oyster-shelled doors and windows, lush patios, inner courtyards and cobbled arcades–in sync with 18th century Goa.
While the family visit only once a year, when it's freezing in NYC, they have left no stones unturned while curating Ahilya. Its interiors are full with tchotchkes collected from various parts of the world–from Mexican and south American flea markets to souks of Morocco and Istanbul. Each piece is hand-picked with a vision of giving it a rustic, old-world charm.


Interiors of one of Ahilya's rooms

So while the open kitchen has an English countryside feel, the pool side has cloth and teak-wood sun decks, carved armchairs and so on. Careful attention to detail is visible even in the room keys, which have miniature paintings by artist Antonio Xavier Trindade, also known as the Rembrandt of the East. He was the owner's grandfather, so all their rooms have versions of his paintings. The hotel also encourages private viewing of his original works at the Fundação Oriente, in Panjim.


Overlooking the Arabian Sea from one of Ahilya's rooms

In the art room, amateur artists can practice painting the picturesque scenes that the adjoining sea presents each day. Apart from art, music too is a big part of Ahilya's history; each family member is proficient in multiple instruments. The hotel's music room organises workshops on local music as well as Fado singing.


For Your Information

  • Though Ahilya by the Sea is a small hotel, it usually needs to be booked a few months prior to your visit
  • Their extended breakfast hours are a boon for late risers
  • Poi (the local bread) and the local jams are a must-have
  • The hotel has good
  • Wi-Fi connectivity
  • but no telephones
  • in the rooms
  • It's very easy to spot dolphins prancing in the sea every morning from the hotel's pool

 

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