As the fashion industry gears up for the Lakme India Fashion Week, which kicks-off on August 26, Amrita Madhukalya weighs in on the collections of designers who will make a mark
As the fashion industry gears up for the Lakme India Fashion Week, which kicks-off on August 26, Amrita Madhukalya weighs in on the collections of designers who will make a mark
New designers bring with them the promise of raw talent, unspoilt by the worries of commercial success. As another season of Lakme India Fashion Week (LIFW) comes close, we look at some young guns who hold that promise. While it's a debut for some, it's been a fine run of a few years for some others. You will find bodycons in deeply colourful prints, fine cuts in anti-fit and Bukowski-loving pret to name a few.
Jebsispar
Cochin-based Jebin Johnny's debut run at the LIFW is as dramatic as it gets. Kathakabuki, his collection of eight outfits, is his interpretation of two dance forms — Kathakali from home state Kerala and Kabuki from Japan. He says that the make-up in both the art forms drew him to them, and he is specially taken by the accessories and headgear used in the traditional dance attire The womenswear collection is ethereally white with splashes of deep colours — oxblood, teal, amber. This graduate of design from Northampton is also one of this year's Gen Next designers, and has been mentored by fashion designer and consultant Sabina Chopra.
Huemn
Who does not love a scowling Bukowski? We warmed up to this label formed by a poet from Lucknow and a cartoonist from Bangalore, because they gave us Bukowski, trenches and mesh shirts. A favourite with Bollywood celebrities and fashion enthusiasts alike, this label by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty won over a lot of people with their sari-trousers two years ago. Showcasing at LIFW for the last seven years, they say that fit, fall and finish are their mainstays. Their clothes are highly androgynous, and they love minimal, bold and futuristic patterns.
Munkee See Munkee Doo
They love guns, and we love their clean cuts. Munkee see Munkee Doo of Pearl Academy graduates Teresa Laisom and Uttam Pradhan is a high-street label of wearable fashion. Their technically-sound cuts in anti-fit wearables are usually accentuated with sharp tailoring and complicated patterns. They say that rules don't apply to them. This is evident in the variety in their Fall Winter 2014/15 and Spring 2015 collections. While the first had Japanese modern art and European contemporary style with flowy and complicated oxblood and grey designs, in Spring 2015, they went all sporty with androgynous and asymmetric shirt-dresses, sarongs and jumpsuits in complicated gun embroidery. We are looking forward to the magic they will create on the ramp again this year.
Siddhartha Bansal
Among the few to have come close to selling the idea of India since Manish Arora, Bansal is a Gen Next kid, whose collection Golden bird is about the journey of India from the sone ki chidiya generation to now. This new kid on the block draws inspiration from India's culture, colour, history, myth and symbols. His designs exhibit a kaleidoscopic and intricate vision. Expect a burst of colour in complicated and fine geometric patterns.
Quirkbox
Quirkbox is the brainchild of celebrated artist Jayesh Sachdev and designer Rixi Bhatia. They debuted with their colourful collection at the 2013 LIFW Resortwear, and have been fashion week favourites ever since. Their designs are heavy on prints in a multi-hued colour palette. Their 2015 collection, Love Story, is the setting of a blossoming love in an enchanted forest. The colour palette features aquamarine, emerald and ruby to amethyst and onyx. The fabrics used are silks, crepe, georgettes and chanderi. "The signature colour blocking to offset the print is maintained with fine texture details. The silhouettes are fluid, relaxed, with a hint of ethnic Indian sensibility," says Sachdev.
amrita.madhukalya@dnaindia.net; @visually_kei
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