Calico draws inspiration from the early 20th century that witnessed the zenith of colonial rule in India when Indian society underwent a visible cultural shift.
Designer Gaurang is all set to showcase his Spring Summer '16 collection titled 'Calico' at the Lakme Fashion Week 2016. Talking about his latest collection, Gaurang says, "Calico is iconic weaves and techniques in all their unfettered glory. Calico emphasizes the rich and vibrant history of Indian craftsmanship while championing the Indian woman of today."
The Hyderbad-based designer's show is on March 31 and the ensembles that will be showcased pay reverence to the aesthetics of early 20th century Indian royalty and unite traditional Indian textiles with vintage silhouettes. "Each ensemble from this collection is crafted from exquisite handwoven textiles in Khadi, Uppada and Kota using the Jamdani technique," says the designer.
Declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, the Jamdani is a singularly striking weave that has created an impact across the centuries. The patterns are woven with a non-structural weft resulting in vibrant patterns that dance across the fabric.
Gaurang says, "Traditional Chikankari embroidery finds a canvas in the Jamdani adding its charm to this stately fabric. The legacy of the princely city of Lucknow, Chikankari is an iconic Indian hand embroidery technique that is both subtle and stunning." 'Calico' will emphasise the rich and vibrant history of Indian craftsmanship while championing the Indian woman of today.
(Gaurang Shah)
Working with weavers across India, Gaurang’s designs begin at the loom and emerge from the chrysalis as finely crafted outfits befitting royalty. The sarees are a labour of love, sometimes taking over six months for master weavers to complete a single piece. With each piece emerging from a single loom, each ensemble epitomises exclusivity. Drawing on various trends of this intriguing era, each piece in this collection by Gaurang evokes a unique nostalgia. The gowns feature popular silhouettes from the “Belle Epoch” period.
Women, whose personalities have been woven into the fabric of Indian history, come alive in this inspiring collection. The Baroda style Navari drape that was Chimnabai’s signature enters the new millennium with a long jacketed blouse. The saree draped as a gown; Sunity Devi’s signature style in England creates a stunning style statement. The traditional saree is subtly reinvented into a garment that is the epitome of the modern Indian aesthetic.
'Calico' draws inspiration from the early 20th century that witnessed the zenith of colonial rule in India when Indian society underwent a visible cultural shift. The wealthy and influential were rubbing shoulders with their colonial counterparts as equals, resulting in a unique blend of cultures, symbolic of the Raj in the 20th century. Gaurang states nowhere is this confluence more evident than in the fashion of this fascinating era, bedecked in jewels, respecting centuries of tradition and heritage, while embracing modernity the Maharanis of this era harnessed their aesthetics to make a powerful statement with their outfits.
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