Red Carpet's new darlings

Sunday, 25 May 2014 - 6:15am IST | Place: Mumbai | Agency: dna

Who are the new go-to evening brands?

Last few seasons have seen the emergence of new designers on the red carpet.
Some of these brands have been traditionally day wear brands who have now moved into the evening space while others have hired new young designers to take the brand ahead with a new creative energy. Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent and Olivier Rousteing for Balmain are two names which instantly come to mind. It is a welcome change in a maze of the usual suspects - Chanel, Dior, Versace and Armani. Brands like Emilio Pucci, Giambattista Valli, Roland Mouret, Marchesa and Stella McCartney are the new design names rocking the red carpet from BAFTA to Met Gala to Cannes.

Fashion is like a buffet
Designer Nachiket Barve says, "The new red carpet staples are Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci and Lanvin. Emilio Pucci was a rock star himself and the brand is the extension of his personality. After a very long time we have seen the resurgence of the brand aimed at a long limb-ed, honeyed woman. Lanvin is another fave because it's not conventionally sexy or revealing and has a massive sense of individuality. Fashion is cyclical and democratic like a buffet and you can not see the monopoly of one evening brand. Giambattista Valli and Elie Saab have taken over the space in a short period of time."

Stylist Ami Patel says, "I think the new red carpet faves which have emerged over the past few seasons are Roland Mouret, Temperley London and Alexander McQueen. Prabal Gurung too has upped the game."

Preening in Pucci
Celebs in India like Gauri Khan too have gravitated towards Emilio Pucci. Is Pucci the new fave? Designer Surily Goel says, "Emilio Pucci has evolved - from doing prints to playing with a lot of lace and sexy sheer back. Also, there is a new sense of beading and shimmer value. However, I wouldn't call it the ultimate go-to brand. It's a divided stage."

New faves: Simone Rocha and Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen
Designer Nimish Shah of label Shift says, "Simone Rocha is the next big name. Designer Sarah Burton has morphed McQueen from being an art piece into a wearable art form. Lanvin is popular among more senior celebs and Michael Kors keeps bouncing back. It also depends on the relationship between the brand and the celeb wearing it. For instance, Helena Carter often wears Vivienne Westwood.
Also red carpet has less to do with the brand ethos or aesthetic and more to do with the dress in question. Aish's Cavalli is dress is not something Cavalli would do generally. A lot of French labels are hiring young designers from NYC who are in their 30s and they are taking risks and creating excitement on a vocal level which doesn't necessarily mean conversion. Often celebs opting for labels like Marchesa or Temperley London want to communicate their fashion forward style statement."

Designer Pria Kataaria Puri says, "Most celebs on the red carpet end up looking the same. One sees the usual emerald green, electric blue, rose pink, deep purple and yellow. I think the new generation of actresses is more aware about their personal style and favour young designers who suit their style. In fact, big brands are now paying celebs to wear their clothes and it's not just about clothes being custom made. Brands like Calvin Klein and Prada which were not red carpet initially have entered the red carpet space in a big way."

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