From the land of Cauvery, flowing along nicely in the city's currents

Thirty-three years of city life hasn’t changed Vani Nanaiah’s love for her home town. Madikeri still tugs at her heart strings, and quite often at that.

“We are off to Kodagu district at least once or twice every month,” she says.

Members of the Nanaiah family spend most of their time in city, but, like the other Kodavas in the city, it still actively takes part in the events in their home town.

The community has a 30,000-strong presence in Bangalore and it has 33 sanghas spread across thecity. It also runs a school and a management college.

The Kodavas have not let the city life affect their traditional way of living. In the Nanaiah household, a rifle leaning on the wall and a carved elephant are reminders of a countryside life.

“We are permitted to possess a gun,” says Vani, who is also the president of the Kodava Women Council. “In the earlier days, when we lived in the countryside, we had to defend ourselves from wild animals. Hence, every family had a gun,” she explains. “In the city, it just remains a showpiece.”

Kade (dried paddy) adorns the puja room as does tookbolcha or the hanging lamp. “In fact, all Kodava homes have the hanging lamp at the entrance or main hall,” she says.

A proud granny of a week-old baby boy, Vani also chronicles the changing traditions. “In old times, when a boy was born, the family would fire a single shot in the air,” she says. “If it is a girl, the woman of the house would beat a plate.”

“In the city, firing a shot in the air is not possible,” she notes. “This practice is dwindling even in Kodagu,” she reveals.

Her 28-year-old daughter Raina walks in dressed casually, in contrast to her mother’s Kodava-style saree. “We do wear the traditional saree during functions, festivals and weddings,” says Raina, a dentist pursuing an MBA, who has been brought up in the city. She feels her family’s traditions and customs do not interfere with city life.

The community celebrates its three most important festivals — Kaupoldu, which is like Ayudha Puja; Puthari, the harvest festival; and Tula Sankramana, the worship of river Cauvery  — with as much fervour as in Kodagu, says Vani.

Ask Vani what she misses most, she says, “Punctuality.” In Kodagu, people are particular about being on time. However, in the city, with so much heavy traffic, that is impossible, she says.
Youngsters like Raina enjoy the Kodava wedding customs.

“We are basically a warrior tribe,” says Ponnanna Uthappa B, Vani’s son-in-law. “Hence, a display of valour and strength is a vital part of our weddings. The bridegroom has to chop a banana stump in a smooth single motion, else he would be ridiculed.”

Today, it is more of a ritualistic gesture, but “back in the old days”, says Ponnanna, “it was a big deal, as the bridegroom’s suitability would be questioned if he failed to chop it”. A triumphant groom would then perform a little “jig” to celebrate his success. “Today, this is just a ceremony, but it makes the wedding visually appealing.”