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Vintage Valaya and Dhaka’s bikinis

“Made in JJ” is what the collection by JJ Valaya under his Valaya Quantum label shouted. Every garment vintage Valaya in style and finish.

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NEW DELHI: “Made in JJ” is what the collection by JJ Valaya under his Valaya Quantum label shouted. Every garment vintage Valaya in style and finish. Spanning silhouettes both eastern and western, the colour palette went from beige to bold black and white. Flouncy skirt hems flirted with perfectly tailored tops and jackets, al embellished in true Valaya style in crystal. JJ is not the Swarovski King for nothing.

The blend of sparkle was nonetheless subtle, embedded in rich embroidery on the bodice of a plain swirling skirt, or on bolero jackets. Definitely clothes for special occasions, despite the apparent simplicity of line and colours.  The pure silk lean pants will set a trend for a long time to come. Very simple, classy and wearable with almost anything.

The colour line had bold ikkat like prints in geometrics combining with curvy florals. There were ruffled short skirts for those blessed with good legs, tiny boleros with embroidery, gem embedded waist bands, which seem to be a fashion statement for the season. 

Layering is an art that JJ excels in, and there was plenty evidence of that. Also liked his off shoulder poncho/kaftan. His men’s line was classic and elegant too, including a silk self coloured shirt with white pin strips running in diagonals. Plenty of rich heavy silk jacquards in cream here too, especially in the long sherwani style jackets.

Earlier in the evening, Rina Dhaka set the hall ablaze with her trio of bikinis on near perfect bodies, and showed a revivalist’s tendencies by bringing into her collection a selection of fine lace with Indian tribal motifs. Pujs Arya of Jaipur gave a new lease of life to the much laboured,overexposed screen print from Rajasthan by mixing and matching prints, layering it al with varied embellishments and adding sheer over cotton . Her polka dots met in peace with stripes and zig zags and created a strangely soothing medley.  The morning had Varun Bahl and Gaurav Gupta showcasing whites in different ways, the one mixing textures with surface embellishments the other using unusual techniques like ribbon matting to create a fresh fabric. And at the end of a long day even for fashionistas (can't miss anyone, my dear,one was overheard telling another), there was Rocky S.

As promised, no bling, except for a very subdued brocade and a few emblems in silver, Rocky S restrained his flamboyant side and put up a collection of whites and pretty pastels.   A total mistake at the end of a long day to have a SLOW moving show. Ask the photographers, who were heard bawling in the media room...over the missed deadlines!

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