The Minara Masjid off Mohammed Ali Road is the mecca for all food lovers during Ramzan. The area still offers the best variety of food available during the month.
But, beyond the lanes of the masjid, there are smaller venues across the city, mostly in the Western suburbs, that attract both the faithful who go there to break their fast, and the intrepid food lover. While some of these areas, like Bohri Mohalla, are already known for their specialty dishes, there are other places that are waiting to be explored by those adventurous enough to venture beyond the familiar lights.
Bohri Mohalla
A stone’s throw away from Mohammed Ali Road, the humble gullies of Bohri Mohalla transform into a gourmand’s delight every evening. Baida rotis and kheeri kaleji jostle for space with the more plebian aloo tikkis and dahi vadas at numerous street-side shops and food carts.
“Surti Barah Handi, a non-descript eatery tucked away in one of the lanes, serves lip-smacking barah handi, a thick, flavoursome gravy containing trotters (paya), bone marrow (nalli nahari), tail, tongue and other organ meat, simmered for hours and best eaten with khameeri rotis (flat bread made with leavened flour),” says travel agent Rehan Momin, who treats his non-Muslim colleagues to a feast here every Ramzan. Another place that regulars swear by is Taj Ice Cream, which serves hand-churned ice-cream in flavours such as mango, strawberry and custard apple.
Mahim
The lanes around Makhdoom Ali Baba’s Dargah come alive every evening, and there are both restaurants and handcarts serving Ramzan delicacies. Cadell Road, or Lady Jamsetji Road, is dotted with eateries selling kebabs, khichda and kheema ghotala. “Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar, near St Michael’s Church, serves delicious harissa and haleem (varieties of khichda, or chunks of meat cooked in broken wheat),” says collegian Rahila Naseem, who is also a regular at the kebab joint run by Iqbal Khan near Midland restaurant.
Businessman and trustee of Mahim and Haji Ali dargahs Sohail Khandwani recommends the firni at Noorani. “The milk is of high quality and people queue up for the sweet,” says Khandwani.
Bandra
Chilled, colourful falooda served at Yadgaar on the western side of the station is highly recommended, though some find it saturated with sugar. Also, Bazaar Road in Bandra village is another hub for iftaari seekers.
Jeff, a restaurant near the Bazaar’s entrance, specialises in biryani and dabba ghosht, a baked mutton and egg dish, and haleem. Robin Saldanha, a Hill Road resident and chef, orders from here: the only catch being that the food is sometimes very oily.
Andheri (West)
The road outside Andheri station on the western side has restaurants and stalls that serve traditional iftaari food. Fayyaz Halai, an optometrist staying in the suburb, suggests Firdaus Sweet Centre for its malpuas (fried pancakes) and firnis. The mutton samosas are also recommended.
Jogeshwari
The road leading to Allah Masjid on the western side of Jogeshwari station has numerous food carts selling Ramzan staples like boti, seekh and biryani. “The succulent seekhs and kebabs at Nawabbhai are tossed in spicy green chutney, onions, and fresh mint and served with tawa parathas,” says garment merchant Farhan Qureshi, who was overjoyed when his favourite kebabwala shifted business from Byculla to Jogeshwari.
Saifee Baug, Andheri (East)
The focal point of the iftaar is this large Bohri housing colony. Both local Dawoodi Bohras and people from other communities flock to the stalls. The food is cooked hygienically: the stall attendants wear gloves. They fry chicken in so many different ways that there can be a menu card solely dedicated to fried chicken. The malai chicken, for instance, is marinated in cream before it is fried. The result is that it almost melts in the mouth.
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