The hunt for the perfect dal-pakwan

Friends and co-workers frequently whine about my 'non-Sindhi' behaviour. Presumably, they are disappointed as much by my solitaire-and-papad shunning ways, as they are about my disdain for all things red and bling. The only redemption factor of my Sindhi lineage is my appetite for Sindhi food. And thus I happily volunteered to map places in Mumbai that offer dal-pakwan, a breakfast staple.

If you haven't heard of, or haven't come across, dal-pakwan yet, I don't blame you. The fault lies entirely with popular culture for glamourising Sindhi kadhi to such an extreme that the other stars of Sindhi cuisine remain in a distant galaxy (far, far away from ours). Hyperbole aside, it might be a good idea to start by knocking on the doors of a neighbouring Sindhi household on a Sunday morning. Chances are you'll be greeted by the sight of big, brownish, crusty puris and thick, yellow dal.

Cooked, not mashed, Bengal gram (chana dal), the dal is the perfect accompaniment for the pakwan — flat bread rolled out of refined flour and deep-fried. The dal is dolloped with green chutney and tamarind paste for a sweet-spicy-tangy flavour. Chopped onions and pickle add razzmatazz to the entire fare. Dal-pakwan may not rate high by the conventional standards of 'rich' food, but it is one of the most satiating breakfast meals in the subcontinent.

The dal-pakwan pursuit (blessed by extended family members whom I dialled after many a new moon for recommendations) led me throughout the city: I rode the bus to Colaba, boarded the monorail to Chembur, went by the metro to Andheri, took the train to Khar and a cab to Sion. Since dal-pakwan is traditional breakfast food, it is typically sold in the mornings; most establishments start serving from 7.30 a.m. onwards and run out by 10 a.m. Make sure you start early for a takeaway.

Established in the post-partition period, Kailash Parbat, Colaba (022-22046079), has been the go-to restaurant for Sindhi cuisine for years. The pakwan here is nice and crunchy but the dal is a tad bland. Try the dal-pakwan here only if you are a south Bombay snob and won't venture to the suburbs.

If you are up for an adventure, head straight to Chembur and make your way to 'camp' along CG Road — a gastronome's delight for Sindhi, Punjabi and Gujarati sweets and snacks. The dal-pakwan at Satu's (022-25536400) is a must-have. They serve a slightly thick pakwan, and their dal is a fragrant combination of Bengal and yellow (moong) gram. A few stores away from Satu's is Vig's Refreshment, which serves a delightfully smooth dal. The pakwan here is as crusty as it is flaky. A heavenly combination. Another place that serves delicious dal-pakwan in Chembur is a small canteen exactly opposite RCF gate number 3 — a few minutes' walk from Vig's Refreshment. It's not easy to stomach the fare from this run-down eatery, but the dal here is particularly creamy.

In the western surburbs, the dal-pakwans at Tharu's (022-26483289) in Khar and Chandru Pure Ghee Sweets in Andheri (022-26340278) are delectable, but are available only on Sundays. Friends also vouch for the dal-pakwan at Guru Kripa (022-24074188) in Sion, but they were sold out when I reached there post 11 a.m. on a weekday. Another find for dal-pakwan is the canteen at the Sukkur Panchayat of Bombay (022-24131275) in Wadala, which serves it on Wednesdays and Sundays.

Finally, for those willing to brave the long train rides to that original Sindhi outpost, Ulhasnagar is a haven for dal-pakwan, where it is commonly available in restaurants as well as at street stalls. Doli Nashtawala and Jai Balaji come particularly recommended for the breakfast staple.