Are spuds being snubbed?

Just like egg yolks have been demonised by sections as a contributor to cholestrol, the humble potato has earned disrepute for contributing to excessive calorie intake. Snubbed by weight watchers and the health conscious set, it’s slowly being pushed down restaurant menus and does not enjoy the priviledged status of being a go-to snack it once did. To find out what brought on this drastic shift, we spoke to chefs and restaurant owners both in the city and the capital.

Patrons want healthier options it’s not only health considerations that are driving people away from the classic fries and skins. It’s also increased awareness about other options available. Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director Bellona Hospitality, elaborates, “Potato fries and skins have become run of the mill and there seems to be a growing awareness about the high content of starch in potatoes which while on their own might be fine, but considering the neutral taste it requires a high amount of butter, mayo, cheese, etc, to add flavour and for it to lend itself as a bar snack. On the other hand, we now have arbi (colacasia/taro), suran (yam) and rataloo or shakarkund (sweet potato) alternative forms of starch that have more inherent flavour and lend themselves to equally delicious fries without adding copious amounts of butter, mayo, cheese, etc.  The traditional potato fries are getting a makeover, with patrons now opting for healthier versions  it. Our all good fries are an assortment of red pumpkin, sweet potato and arbi chips. When you subtract the guilt from its infamous relative — the potato fries while keeping the taste factor constant, the All Good Fries are what you get.”

Chef Vicky Ratnani, head chef, The Korner House agrees. He goes on to add that French Fries are a cliche American thing, which was served at QSRs (quick service restaurants) and fast food joints. He explains, “Since our patrons are highly health-conscious, we have moved to a more healthier menu and instead of the regular fries, we serve baked potato wedges with our signature black pepper and parmesan dust.”  Simran Dhingra, owner at Delhi-based Twist believes that being readily available has also worked against it, and says, “One can find fries and potato skins at a lot of places. Besides, it’s heavier than most of the snacks we offer at Twist. We offer stir fried asparagus and tofu cruch instead.”  Manoj Pandey​ (partner chef, The Piano Man Jazz Club), says, “Patrons nowadays tend to avoid fried appetisers with their drinks as the awareness has increased a lot amongst them and as a result we have introduced healthier options that also go well with drinks.” Access to fresh produce is another reason that’s led to a monumental shift in tubers we choose to consume.

Potato v/s cassava

Chef Siddharth Kalyanaraman, head chef NRI, says, “Cassava is a root vegetable with a rough bark like skin, common in tropical countries. It is a popular ingredient in Caribbean, South American and African cuisines. It is called by different names in various cultures and cuisines like mogo, kappa and yucca. It is quite similar to a potato in that it has to be cooked before consumption, but is starchier and sweeter. It is an excellent source of B3 and is much lower in fat and higher in protein than potatoes. It is also higher in Vitamins and micronutrients such as Iron, Zinc and Magnesium. Once fried they give a lovely brown colour and crisp up quite easily. 150 gms portion of Yucca fries contains 225 calories while the same portion of potato fries contains 480 calories. Apart from the health benefits it is a wonderful change to the spud in terms, of texture, taste and flavour and is as versatile in its uses. At NRI we have a Kenyan dish that uses cassava root, called the Butter Mogo. The cassava is boiled, fried crisp and tossed with garlic, chilli and lime in butter. While at Lima, it is grilled on a Churrasco and served with a flavour packed smoked green tomato salsa.”

In defense of spuds!

Chef Milan at Cafe Haqq Se is definitely not on board the ‘no potato’ movement and clarifies that the humble potato has simply been given an unfair deal. He adds, “The potato, despite being regarded as the king of vegetables and the most economical option for the poor has off late been termed as unhealthy.” Potatoes contains more magnesium than one banana, it has enough vitamin C to fulfill half of your daily requirement, has 0 fat of any kind and has no sodium or cholesterol. It is in fact a rich source of vitamin B6, an anti-oxidant and contains fibre. It is not only a great option for the less privileged as it provides all nutritional needs but also a great source of energy for top level athletes argues chef Milan.

He adds, “It’s unhealthy to eat anything that is deep fried in excess, but then it is also not fair to blame it all on the poor potato. Yes, in the culinary world it is certainly great to explore more and create variations of fries and one can often see other tubers like the sweet potato... plantain (raw banana) or even vegetables like zucchini or others from the pumpkin family. I for one, have loved potatoes way before the first signs or thoughts of becoming a chef surfaced. I therefore take it as my responsibility to bring about healthier options based on potatoes: roasting, baking, pan frying in a healthy cooking medium or any cooking technique that not only retains the nutritional qualities but also enhances almost every meal experience. At Cafe Haqq Se, potatoes are aptly represented in good measure where they need to be. As an accompaniment we have baked Bhuney Aloo....whole potatoes with skin slow cooked on dying embers of charcoal and served with salt. Indian chilli pepper just like done in village bonfires. Aloo bharta or Chokha as it is calked in parts of Bihar and Jharkhand finds its righful place next to Littti or filled dough balls again a rustic recipe from eastern part of India.  Twice cooked potato wedges are also served with cafe style Indian food here and the healthy angle of the potatoes is kept in mind as pre-baked potatoes are pan crisped in minimum oil just before serving. Masala Jeera Aloo Dauphinoise is an Indian jeera aloo adaptation of the French Dauphinoise that is potato baked in layers.”

The potato is not going anywhere!

And while some may believe that the potato is on its way out, that’s far from true. says Liton Bhakta, chef, The Daily Bar & Kitchen, who adds, “I personally don’t think potatoes in any form are going anywhere. In fact, places are trying newer ways to reinvent fries so people can enjoy it more. At the Daily, we have the Devil Fries, which has Mediterranean flavoured chicken mince and a creamy cheese sauce.” 

Chef Rohan Philip at Glocal Junction, “Fries and skin are here to stay. However, healthier vegetable  chips  made of sweet potato, bananas, banana flower tikki with sambal, sago and colocasia is certainly making its way on menus.” Rohit Maingi, managing partner, Delhi-based Bottles and Barrels, says, “French Fries and potato skins are classics, which can never be replaced. However, we have improvised on them. So instead of fries, we serve wedges or throw in some cheese and you get cheesy baby potatoes.”

Hence, while some may snub the spud, there are others who still can’t seem to get enough of it. And till the latter exists, they will find a mention on restaurant menus.