Demystifying Rani Padmini

Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s larger-than-life spectacles always portray protagonists, whose looks are steeped in history, heritage and regalia. Everything from the maang teeka to the kohl-rimmed eyes — is meticulously researched and flawlessly executed making them memorable. It’s hard to erase Deepika Padukone’s country-inspired look in Ram Leela and Madhuri Dixit’s regal take on Chandramukhi in Devdas. Also, worth mentioning here are Mastani’s warrior princess avatar, which set the screen ablaze in Bajirao Mastani. Now film addicts are waiting with bated breath for SLB’s upcoming Padmavati where Deepika Padukone plays Rani Padmini, the legendary queen mentioned in Padmavat, an epic poem written by Malik Muhammad Jayasi in 1540 CE. According to the poem, she was the wife of King Ratansen of Chittor and the daughter of the contemporary Sinhala king. Rani Padmini was renowned across Indian land for her beauty.

When Ratan Singh (played by Shahid Kapoor) refuses Alauddin Khilji’s (essayed by Ranveer Singh) demand for Padmavati for his harem, war ensues and the king is taken prisoner. Meanwhile, the king of neighbouring Kambhalner makes an indecent proposal to the queen. Ratan Singh escapes and kills the king of Kambhalner, but is himself fatally wounded. His two queens, Padmavati and Nagmati perform Jauhar, and Alauddin’s army arrives when their ashes are still warm. Chittor falls to the emperor.

It is believed Maharani Padmini performed Jauhar in 1303. Jauhar is the self-immolation of queens and female royals of the Rajput kingdoms, when facing defeat at the hands of an enemy.

A huge pyre was lit and followed by their queen, all the women of Chittor jumped into the flames and deceived the lustful enemy waiting outside.

The comparisons between Jodha’s (played by Aishwarya Rai Bachchan) look from Jodhaa Akbar and Padmini are bound to happen as both of them hail from the same region and era. We ask designers to interpret Deepika’s look in Padmavati in their own unique handwriting.

Like a miniature painting  

Designer Falguni Peacock of the label Falguni and Shane Peacock says, “Rajasthan is rich in culture and has different elements to offer. There’s a lot of silk fabric with gold and silver taar in it — lehenga in silk with zardozi with a lot of semi-precious stones in it. Back in the day they used real silver and stones. I wanted an interplay of gold, yellow and red — the three vibrant colours which personify the Indian culture. It’s quite close to the Jodhaa Akbar look. I looked at a lot of miniature paintings for the sketch. We added the lotus details too besides the jadau jewellery, minakari blues and reds and maroons painted on the jewellery.”

Powerful-yet-feminine

Designer Anupamaa Dayal suggests, “I would give a long angrakha jacket, lehenga and choli with hints of foliage print making the look feminine. The colour of the lehenga will be flame orange, a powerful yet feminine colour. I would team it up with rust gold foot thongs and spiral bangles.”

She adds, “I am a fan of Jodha’s styling in Jodha Akbar. Coming to styling Padmini differently, I would do it by giving her lot of layering with light jackets and wrap kurtas. I would add a mix of colours like orange, pink, hints of yellow to style Padmini, moving away from just the reds and golds. Also, would add a hint of feminine prints along with the heavy embroidery.”

Inspired by Nritya

Designer Nikhil Mehra of label Shantanu & Nikhil says, “It’s our version of Padmavati, which is a mix of the two cultures together — Indian contemporary with a reference of India. We have focused on Padmini’s structure and silhouette. The volume is inspired by nritya or dance moves. It’s an ode to the Gods. With this look we’d suggest pairing of old school polki jewellery, cut-work diamonds. All in all mixing old with the new. We’d like to show her with pulled back hair so that her jawline gets the focus. This silhouette attempts to show Padmini’s impact and power with her eyes. Back in the day the hair was always tied out of respect to the Gods. The shape of the gown is inspired by the architecture of Rajasthan.”

Aware of her beauty

Designer Alpana Mittal of label Alpana and Neeraj says, “Rani Padmini is someone who is really aware of her beauty and yet, not arrogant about it. She’s powerful, has a strong mind. I wanted to give her a striped teal blue lehenga with choli in beautiful silk and in a deep plum colour with a real antique gold work on it. If one looks at her portrait, she’s sensual, but not vulgar. A complete contrast to the soft top would be a light dupatta. All in all she comes across as a delicate person yet very strong inside. I didn’t want to depart from too much of the essence of the beauty and wanted to steer clear of the very predictable way. To complete the look I’d give her a choker, a rani haar, a teeka and a lot of flowers.”