Authentic Sindhi cuisine believes in keeping the flavours light and mild. Sadly, today’s Sindhi restaurants are mostly dishing out fast food.
The Sindhis brought with them their unique food culture when they moved to India during Partition. The crunchy, savoury boondi which goes into paani puri and raita -- as well as its sweet version -- both owe their origins to the Sindhi kitchen. The tangy besIan-based kadhi that goes so well with steaming hot rice is a Sindhi staple. Papads are an all-time Sindhi favourite.
A walk down the trading district of Kalbadevi is one way to explore the many flavours of Sindhi cuisine. The Bhagat Tarachand restaurants near the Cotton Exchange are among the oldest eateries in this area. Opened in 1895 in Pakistan and then relocated in Kalbadevi after the Partition, the shop has been split among the family members.
At G Bhagat Tarachand, the upmarket fine dining option, all that remain today of the Sindhi cuisine are snacks like aloo tuk (deep fried slices of potatoes with a sprinkling of red chilli powder) and papad chura (crumbled papad with fried onions and coriander topping). Across the road is B Bhagat Tarachand, which is run more like a canteen.
Here food can be ordered in a hurry and orders are actually yelled across the restaurant to the kitchen. You get a mix of Gujarati, Punjabi and Sindhi cuisines at this eatery. If you like koki, the Sindhi chapati made with onions and coriander, head for this eatery.
Ramesh Hemrajani endorses the authenticity of the Sindhi fare served at B Bhagat Tarachand. But he points out that this basic home-style food does not really excite the young people in his community. “Only those of the older generation still enjoy a meal of sai bhaji, dal pakwan and koki,” he says.
Sagar Mulchandani of the popular Kailash Parbat (KP) chain endorses this view. Started by Parsaram Mulchandani in 1952 in Colaba, this restaurant is known for its range of quick snacks -- paani puri, ragda pattice, chhole samosa and kulfi falooda. But KP, which has outlets in many malls across the city also serves typical Sindhi food. Do try their matha, a chaas-like drink mixed with sev, boondi and crushed bhajias.
The other destination for authentic Sindhi food is the legendary Guru Kripa at Sion. Started by the Wadhwa brothers 30 years ago, many tend to ignore the mother restaurant because the fast food and mithai section in the front tends to grabs all the attention.
Do try the various barfis here — pista, jaggery, chocolate and the very unique sev barfi (milk barfi sprinkled with sev). “Sindhi food is popular because it is light. We do not use excessive masalas. And our food is characterised by the use of light spices and a slight tangy touch,” says Govind Wadhwa. But Guru Kripa too has diversified into other popular cuisines. “What to do? People like fast food,” says Wadhwa.
Sindhi oral historian Hiro Shroff admits that Sindhi restaurants and cuisine are both changing fast. But he has a suggestion for those looking for a real Sindhi meal: “If KP and Guru Kripa have stopped serving authentic Sindhi food then the only way out is to travel to Ulhasnagar where the new Sindhi immigrants now live.”
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