Honey, there’s popcorn soup for dinner

In the name of molecular gastronomy, chefs are breaking down food, and creating bizarre concoctions. Now, the art has come to Mumbai


Eating coffee, drinking a pie, or wading through a foam for dessert: It may sound strange, but all this and much more is possible thanks to molecular gastronomy, a science of cooking that has finally made its way into Mumbai's kitchens, almost 30 years after it was introduced by Hungarian physicist, Nicholas Kurti, and French physical chemist, Hervé This.

Simply put, molecular gastronomy can be explained as a scientific discipline involving the study of physical and chemical processes that occur in cooking, and can be used for changing texture and palate profiles. It's breaking the food into its basic elements.

Knowledge of the processes that occur in the making of a particular dish would enable the chef to manipulate it to suit his requirements. This scientific method is being used by an increasing number of chefs to come up with new recipes, novel techniques of cooking, and dishes that are different in appearance and taste.

Sous chef Gresham Fernandes, of Aurus in Juhu, explains, "I would probably define molecular cooking as great food going crazy; it is totally mad, but great fun." And in the kitchen, instead of pots and pans boiling and frothing with sauces, you'll find pipettes, measuring cylinders, chemicals, syringes —apparatus usually associated with a laboratory. A sight that can intimidate the best of chefs.

Chef Brainard Colaco of Mocha Coffees and Conversations, also a proponent of molecular gastronomy, says, "The atmosphere does get a bit lab-like, but food is a science and it is made of chemicals. We are understanding this science, and using it. The fear attached to molecular cooking is hence completely baseless."

Aurus and Mocha are probably the only two restaurants in Mumbai that are experimenting with molecular cooking on such a large scale. Aurus also introduced a few dishes made with the help of this scientific method on their menu. Watermelon Caviar (watermelon that has a similar texture to caviar); Brazilian Carpaccio and Thai Squid Salad, Parmesan Gelato and Air of Modena Balsamico; Duck Breast with Sage; and Foamed Pre-desserts are some of the more bizzare, but delicious items on the menu.

Vikas Seth, the corporate chef of Aurus, says, "The response has been great. People want to experiment and are ready to try out new things. We are introducing Mumbaikars to different flavours in different ways."

And though the permutations and combinations are limitless, the cost and time it takes to prepare a meal can be a lot more than traditional tried-and-tested methods. "Many old-school chefs do not really agree with this method, as they feel they are chefs, not scientists. But that's where they are wrong. Isn't food chemistry? Don't we already use science in cooking?" asks Gresham.

The most important thing in molecular cooking is to monitor the time and temperature. Quantities are also of extreme importance, hence the use of pipettes, micro-pipettes and thermometers. "

All over the world, young chefs are pushing the envelope aspiring to create the new flavour of the season, and thanks to molecular gastronomy, we can nibble on foie gras with anchovies, venison tartare with edamame ice-cream, and fried mayonnaise.

So, does the new-age chef also have to be a master chemist? Brainard grins: "Honestly, I always flunked chemistry. But now that I'm interested in this field, I've been reading up on molecular gastronomy for the last two years," says Brainard. "Knowledge is important, but I also take help from my food technologists, and always send the food to the laboratory for testing."

Like Hervé This, who's seen as the father of molecular gastronomy, Brainard, too, began experimenting at home. His first attempt involved creating an ice-cream salad. His interest in the field increased, and so did his experiments, but there were doubts.

"Initially, when I started, people at Mocha thought I was getting weird, but I persisted. I wanted to give people something different in texture and appearance: A novel dining experience. I am going to come up with a 15-course menu, where guests can eat the menu, as well as the food," he says.

Critics might question the need to serve popcorn soup. But the need to be different, and the desire to bring in an element of non-conformity, is the driving force behind molecular cooking. And it's slowly becoming the flavour of Mumbai's palate.
s_surekha@dnaindia.net