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Last aloo paratha eaten, Cafe Samovar downs its shutters

On its last day on Tuesday, owner Usha Khanna looked resplendent in white, but couldn't hold back her tears, like many others. She took her last bite of the aloo paratha that had become synonymous with the cafe. Not one to lose hope easily, she said she believed in the power of Mumbaikars. "Common man is intelligent and persuasive for good causes. Where else can you sit with the country's topmost artists and share tables with them? It was a place to make friends and share your problems," said the 87-year-old.

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It ended just the way it began. As orders of dahi wadas, kheema parathas and watermelon juice kept coming in, the staff kept bowing to every whim. Nostalgic patrons, meanwhile, enjoyed their last meals at Cafe Samovar, which, they claimed, stayed true to its name, providing warmth to whoever wished for it. A haven for penniless artists who got to enjoy free meals, the cafe was at its peak in the '70s and launched many careers and love stories.
Embroiled in a legal battle with the trustees of Jehangir Art Gallery for three decades, the cafe lost it in 2010, after which it was given an extension of five years that ended on March 31.

On its last day on Tuesday, owner Usha Khanna looked resplendent in white, but couldn't hold back her tears, like many others. She took her last bite of the aloo paratha that had become synonymous with the cafe. Not one to lose hope easily, she said she believed in the power of Mumbaikars. "Common man is intelligent and persuasive for good causes. Where else can you sit with the country's topmost artists and share tables with them? It was a place to make friends and share your problems," said the 87-year-old.

She remembered the day she slipped Rs100 notes in the shirt pocket of a filmmaker named Paddy, who wanted to make movies on cricket. She spoke of the time when Kala Ghoda was a demonstration area. "Two political parties used to come charged to fight each other and used lathis to hit each other. After the fight was over, they would all come to the cafe hand in hand and share tea," she said.

Khanna also played matchmaker while handling the cafe's day-to-day activities. "Mothers used to come to me to ask if the boys coming to the cafe were good. I was the person they came to for character certificates. Today, they thank me for the successful marriages of their daughters," she smiled.

Renowned artists MF Hussain, SH Raza and Jehangir Sabavala, and film personalities Satyajit Ray, Ketan Mehta, Dilip Kumar and Amitabh and Jaya Bachchan frequented it. While former mayor and sheriff of the city Nana Chudasama's love story began at the humble restaurant. The 82-year-old met his wife Munira at the cafe. "I saw her at Samovar. I was persistent. I wrote her many letters and asked her to meet me at the cafe, where, one year later, I proposed to her. We got married thereafter. The cafe needs to be saved. The city needs its intelligence," he said.

Chudasama used to visit the cafe after his lectures at Elphinstone college and held many meetings there. He plans to put up a banner above Pizza By The Bay at Marine Drive in Samovar's honour.

Govind Swarup, ex principal secretary of cultural affairs of Maharashtra, had supported the cafe in a similar fight 20 years ago. "You can't treat this place as a cafe, it's an institution in itself. Thinkers, filmmakers, art lovers and commoners share a history with the place and it should be kept on a separate pedestal. It pains to know that this place won't be here anymore," he said.

Chief secy told to explore options to keep Samovar open: CM

In a ray of hope for the beleaguered Café Samovar, chief minister Devendra Fadnavis said chief secretary SS Kshatriya has been asked to explore options to ensure that the café stays in business.

He, however, added that the case had legal issues as it had been decided in the Supreme Court (SC).

Cultural minister Vinod Tawde too assured a positive outlook while replying to a Point of Propriety raised in the council on taking initiative to ensure that the cafe is not shut down.

On Monday, BJP leader Shaina NC had met Fadanvis asking him to save the café, which is located in the same building as the Jehangir Art Gallery in Kala Ghoda.

The café, which was frequented by stalwarts from film and art world, was involved in a legal battle with the gallery trustees, who want the space for a gallery housing more works. It downed its shutters on Tuesday.

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