The joy of stalking the stripes

I believe hunters become the best naturalists. Apart from their acute sense of the animal kingdom, it’s the guilt that drives them to protect animals later,” said one of the naturalists, trained by Taj Safaris and & Beyond, Africa, at Banjar Tola, Kanha.

Therefore, if you have such a naturalist at your disposal, your trip into one of these mysterious forests of India will be embedded in your memory forever — whether you see the tiger or not.

Incidentally, the United Nations General Assembly has also declared 2011 as the International Year of Forests to raise awareness on sustainable management, conservation and sustainable development of all types of forests.

All the more reason for you to pack your bags and set out into the wilderness, isn’t it?

First stop: Kanha
Only about 300sqkm (of the 2200 odd sqkm) of the forest area at Kanha is navigable — enough if all you want to do is look at a few animals and not close enough if you want to feel the real essence of the forest. However, a drive into the park, as early as 5am, can be anything from breathtaking to overwhelming. The first animal you’re bound to see is the spotted deer and then an occasional gaur, sambar and the barasingha (the nearly wiped-out deer that’s only available at Kanha in central India).

Kanha, which is dominated by sal trees, is not as open as Pench can get. It’s said that after the monsoon, the forest is as lush as ever and in the winters (when the temperature drops dramatically), you can’t see beyond a few feet due to the fog. However, the best time to actually spot the wild animals is during the late summers (May and June). It entirely depends on where you’re staying for your safari, but you should be able to make two trips a day into the forest.

Your guides are naturally tuned to looking for tiger tracks, considering that is what most people want to see. But don’t get your hopes up because spotting one of those animals is hard! In fact, you might see pretty much everything except for the Royal Bengal Tiger! Kanha also has very strict rules — no plastic allowed (in fact, Banjar Tola doesn’t allow much of it inside its property either), you can’t carry mobile phones in and you pretty much need to keep your voices low. And, you need to be patient.

If you’re lucky enough to find some rain, the landscape of Kanha is completely different — the temperature drops and the animals come out once the rains have stopped. A few of the best places to spot them would be near the watering holes. And if there’s a good tracker with you, you might even see the tiger and/or the leopard, like we did!

To reach
You can either fly to Nagpur, visit Pench first and then, go up to Kanha or fly to Raipur and then drive to Kanha, which takes a little under five hours.

To stay
Banjar Tola: Part of the Taj Safaris and & Beyond chain, this luxury tented property, along the Banjar river, offers exotic rooms for those with deep pockets. Different plans to suit your needs are available — you could either choose a full jungle plan, that includes all your safaris, meals, beverages, park fees or the limited plan that can be customised according to your needs.

They’ve all been trained by Indian and international experts and will not only help you spot animals, but teach you a thing or two about wildlife.

Royal Tiger Resort: Inspired by the mud cottages of the local tribal, the resort has a total of 18 air-conditioned suites. The cottages are arranged in clusters of two or four to accommodate larger or smaller groups.

Muba at Mukki: Inspired by international wildlife resorts, Muba offers tastefully-decorated rooms with all the modern amenities.

Second stop: Pench
Primarily a teak forest, Pench wasn’t as green as my previous stop but once the monsoon comes, it’s a completely different sight. After a four-hour drive from Kanha to the Baghvan resort, in the blatant sun, I was all set to see my second set of tigers. But it took me a few drives (just like in Kanha) before I actually spotted some.
The animal kingdom at Pench is not very different from Kanha — a lot of gaur, sambar, spotted deer, peacocks, jungle rooster and monkeys will welcome you with open arms.

But the tigress and her  two cubs took a while to appear. In fact, had it not been for a distinct alarm call sounded off by one of the monkeys, we would have missed the opportunity by a whisker. But we waited and our patience paid off because we did see the mother appear from behind the dry but thick bushes with her two little ones in tow.

It’s said that wildlife photographers and real wildlife enthusiasts flock the parks before they shut down during the monsoon. If you’re not much bothered by the heat (the temperature can reach 48degree C) and have your sunblock, hat, etc in place — jump right in. It’s an experience you will never forget and an opportunity you must never miss.

To reach
It takes about two hours to reach Pench from Nagpur. The best way to go!

To stay
Baghvan: Situated in the Seoni district of southern Madhya Pradesh, is located on the border of the Pench National Park, which received international recognition with Rudyard Kipling’s classic tale — The Jungle Book. Designed by architect Dean D’Cruz together with & Beyond’s designer Chris Browne, the Baghvan lodge features 12 stand-alone luxurious suites, leveraging its natural settings to provide a tranquil experience.

S Kumar 999: This resort provides all basic amenities including air-conditioned cottages.

Kipling’s Court: Kipling’s Court is one of the oldest resorts in Pench, owned by MPTDC. It has 20 rooms and provides dormitory facilities for 10 people.
 

(This review has been facilitated by an invitation from
Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces, & Beyond)