A glimpse at Bangladeshi cuisine

The main factor that makes Bangladeshi cuisine delicious, according to Monalisa Deb, a food enthusiast who travels to Bangladesh quite a lot, is the lack of cold storage facilities in the country.

“They don’t keep anything in the cold storage, so the freshness of their vegetables is assured,” she says. People in Bangladesh use seasonal produce, which, if you’ve ever heard a TV chef pontificate on its virtues, is a surefire way to cook healthy, tasty food.

However, while there is no doubt that it includes some of the most drool-inducing dishes ever conceived, Bangladeshi cuisine is not really known for it’s waistline-reducing qualities.

The landmass of Bangladesh is said to have been formed by the silt laid down by the numerous rivers that flow through this region. Fish lovers all over the world will testify that it is nothing short of divine benediction that the 800 rivers of this lush land produce bountiful quantities of the irrepressibly delicious ‘Eelish’, or as it is better known, Hilsa. And it’s this tasty mine-field of fish thorns that is the main ingredient in one of Bangladesh’s signature dishes, ‘eelish-er maache-bhaate’.

It is cooked in the manner of a biryani. In fact in West Bengal it’s often referred to as ‘eelish maacher biryani’ (Hilsa biryani), but the flavour and texture of the dish is completely unique, which is primarily a function of the in it. You start cooking this dish by tossing an ample scoop of ghee into a sizzling wok.

And the last thing you do is pour a generous quantity of the same on top of the rice before shoving it into the oven. So it’s the copious quantities of ghee intermingling with the fatty oil released by the Hilsa that provides the thrust of flavour, not a battery of spices as is the case with the traditional Indian biryani. The rice too is overcooked and sticky unlike its Indian counterpart. Be forewarned though, the ability of this potent mixture of rice and Hilsa to induce sleep rivals any sleeping pill you’re likely to find at the local pharmacist’s.

Given the abundance of rivers in the country, it’s only natural that fish is an integral part of Bangladeshi cuisine. However Bangladeshis are by no means pure pescetarian, in fact, far from it. Meat, mainly beef, cooked in a variety of styles and techniques, constitutes a large part of the national diet. Though they have some gravy-based dishes, the average Bangladeshi household, according to Deb, likes their ‘goshto’ (meat) spicy and dry.

‘Kodai goshto’ is an excellent example of this. Whereas the ‘eelish-er maache-bhaate’ is a dish that relies on the inherent flavour of its core ingredients, to cook the kodai goshto you have to employ an army of spices. Ginger, garlic, garam-masala, cardamom, cinnamon sticks, turmeric powder, chilli powder all go into the pot at the same time.

The aroma that sidles its way into your nostrils, once you add a little water, is intoxicating. Add the beef, almonds, milk and fried onions to this and you have a mouthwatering culinary creation that will certainly ensure the loosening of your belt by several notches.

If you’re starting to entertain the notion that it’s savoury courses that are the mainstay of Bangladeshi cuisine, you would be mistaken. The Bangladeshi food-culture places great emphasis on sweet dishes. Some of the most elegant and creative desserts are part of the repertoire of any Bangladeshi cook worth his or her salt.

From ‘patishapta-pithas’, which are a sort of thin milk and flour pancakes rolled around a delicious, warm coconut or jaggery stuffing, to the inimitable sandesh available in almost as many shapes, sizes, forms and flavours as there are stars in the night-sky, there is no shortage of sugary delights to satisfy your sweet-cravings. Okay so ‘stars in the night-sky’ is a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea.

If you want to taste some of these delectable sweetmeats and don’t want to stand in line at the visa counter of the Bangladeshi Consulate, you can easily source them in Bengal as well. In fact, due to its shared history, the cuisine of West Bengal and Bangladesh are quite similar. If there is a difference, according to Sharmila Sengupta, a Bengali of Bangladeshi heritage, it lies in the usage of a very simple, common-place ingredient, sugar. Cooks in West Bengal are more liberal with the amount of sugar they put in their food than their Bangladeshi counterparts.

Of course there are other differences. Bengalis are not known to consume much beef, for example, but in terms of recipes and processes both cuisines are largely the same.

It’s curious therefore that Bangladeshi cuisine has travelled the globe much better than its Bengali counterpart. In the UK for instance, Chicken tikka masala, has knocked off Fish-n-Chips from the perch of being regarded as the national dish. Chicken tikka masala though, is a unique creation of the Bangladeshis residing in the UK. Mention this dish in Bangladesh and you’ll be subject to blank, questioning stares. In fact, most Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK masquerade as Indian eating joints.

The food available in these places is usually a bastardised version of the original and lacks its subtlety and flavour. For now, it seems, if you want to experience a sumptuous, authentic Bangladeshi meal you’ll have to travel east-wards to the country where it’s made best. So happy travelling and please do tuck in.