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JUST BEFORE MONDAY
Exploring the iconic Hagia Sophia, sampling large mezze platters, cruising down the Bosporus strait, and more, Yoshita Rao checks out the highlights of Turkey's tourism capital
Istanbul — the city of minarets, the only one in the world spread between the continents of Europe and Asia. It is said that tourists never leave without a glimpse of the Bosporus strait, that divides the city. Yet, what connects the people of this multicultural city is its history. Or perhaps its sarap (wine), pronounced as sharab (alcohol) in Hindi.
Istanbul is just a six-hour flight from India. But even before landing, you experience a slice of what to expect when Turkish Airlines serves you a meal, which includes Turkish delight and Turkish coffee with minaret-shaped salt and pepper shakers. Not to forget the complimentary fluffy slippers in the business class that came with a note: "In Anatolian houses, slippers are presented to guests for their comfort. Inspired by this tradition, we wanted you to feel at home during your journey."
As I step out of Istanbul's Atatürk airport sometime past noon, I'm greeted by the echo of azans (ritual prayer made from the minaret of a mosque). Reveling in this sound, while we enter from the 'Broken Gate', a popular route because of the strategic placements of monuments from the Ottoman period at the heart of Istanbul, I happen to notice about 30ft high ruins of walls. Made from light beige and white stones, these I'm told, were possibly erected thousands of years ago and despite their present condition, still bear a hint of their former glory. These walls are deeply rooted in the history and culture of Istanbul, and initially surrounded the old city of Constantinopolis. Inhabitants that dwelled inside the stone walls, mainly the Byzantines, were protected against invaders, burglars and attacks from sea and land. The Galata tower, outside the Byzantine area, was first a Venetian quarter and then part of the Genoese territory. The primary purpose of the tower's stretch of walls was to be used as a watchtower. During the day, people of other origins could enter this fortress, but had to leave before the gates closed post midnight.
To sample what the locals eat, visit a restaurant with a set menu. The starter is the massive, mezze platter – a selection of bite-size dishes accompanied by yogurt, dollops of cream, olives and a variety of Turkish white cheese called Beyaz Penir. Muhammara – a spicy paste of garlic, pepper and walnuts, is another favourite that complements a barbeque eggplant puree called Patlican Salatasi. A highlight is the kebap (kebab) platter that serves rightly spiced and grilled chunks of lamb, beef and chicken meats. Turkish pizza or Pide, is delightfully shaped like a boat and topped with oodles of meat and cheese. Along with the well-known Turkish delight and Baklava, do sample the peynirli irmik tatl?s?, a sweet which combines hot and sweet semolina (that tastes like sheera) with a cheese filling, that is served with ice cream. Kabak tatlisi – grated pumpkin drizzled with walnuts and sesame oil, along with ice cream, makes for another delicious contender.
A host of seafood restaurants along the Bosporus offer a unique, paste-like dish of spicy prawns and fried fish. You can easily satisfy your Shawarma cravings in Istanbul as almost every street corner has a stall serving the dish in various meats.
Adding colour to the sidewalks of Istanbul, along with the street art and graffiti, are manicured clusters of fresh tulips. The combined landscaping of purple and yellow tulips is the most attractive to look at. Even the pink, red and peach ones also mesmerise. It is, after all, the national flower of Turkey. In fact, the upcoming watchtower of the Istanbul Atatürk Airport will flaunt a design inspired from the tulip.
Soak in the elite side of Istanbul, by cruising down the Bosporus, as on its banks lie the exquisite homes of the wealthy Jewish folk costing 100 million EUR and above. While the Grand Bazaar, Spice market, and the surreal Blue Mosque are highlights, the unique Hagia Sophia museum will leave you spellbound. Ayasofya, has its roots in both, Islam and Christianity and together the words mean 'Holy Wisdom'. This edifice was originally a Greek Orthodox Christian church, then converted to a mosque, and finally, transformed into a public museum by Turkey's first president, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Evidence of this change in beliefs, can be traced on its iconoclastic dry, yellow plastered walls on the inside. Here, large frescos of angels and the Virgin Mary with baby Jesus lie embedded next to enormous Islamic inscriptions. Hagia Sophia has been under restoration for nearly 1,500 years – almost its entire lifetime – as natural calamities, especially massive earthquakes, continue to plague the city. And yet, the city continues to accept an outpouring of Syrian refugees, who hope to rebuild their lives in Istanbul.
Just like its fashion sensibilities that are inclusive of the hijab as well as quirky suspenders, and thigh-high boots to plain sandals, overall, the city's diversity is simply infectious and stays with you long after you bid adieu.