Fashion maketh the politician

Smart high-neck kurtas paired with sleeveless bandhgalas, khadi saris in pastel shades and the odd formal suit – the faces of Indian politics have changed over the years, and so has the fashion. "Whether it is social media or the family lineage, most politicians walk the thin line between being highly fashionable, yet having the need of being accepted by the masses," shrugs Delhi-based fashion designer Raghavendra Rathode, who has designed outfits for a few Indian politicians.

Image has always been an integral part of politics – one only has to look at Sonia Gandhi, for her switch from Italian designers to the local weaves, which made her more 'Indian'. But today, where trolls are just waiting to pounce on style faux pas – the vicious backlash against Rahul Gandhi's Burberry jacket or Narendra Modi's custom made suit – constructing an image requires that much more care in front of the mirror each morning.

"As the cycle of news gets quicker, the demand on politicians is almost similar to people in the entertainment business. Difference being that the look cannot change with every appearance. Instead, a seamless portrayal of one personality must come through," Rathode further explains.

A most obvious instance is when a dignitary visits another country. Among visitors to India, the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton was lauded for her subtle choices of Indian designers, but Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau was trolled for his band baaja look. "I feel people find it awkward on seeing international dignitaries dressing up out of sync in spite the enormous effort they might put in believing that they are doing the right thing wearing cultural clothing," says Rathode.

Clothing choices of politicians, however, can be aptly seen in the choice of the colour palate. The focus no longer lies on pristine white for embodying purity of character. The message now is a mix of competence and relatability. "Narendra Modi broke away from the white-on-white colour scheme that most politicians followed heretofore, instead opting for the efficiency portrayed by his crisp long kurtas, jackets, fitting trousers and western shoes," elucidates fashion designer Narendra Kumar.

White is no longer a politician's favoured colour, but the solemnity is maintained through earthy tones, dark blues and greys.

One's sartorial choice has the power to become as symbolic as the symbol of the party. For instance, Brinda Karat's large bindis are as associated with her image as the hammer and sickle of her party's symbol. "Political image-building is a strong part of the propaganda, self-positioning and alignment of vision, for every individual seeking a political place in society. This is nothing new, as Germans did this during the Second World War," says Rathode.

Indeed, Hitler's toothbrush mustache is now the more of an emblem of the Nazi propaganda than the swastika. If one doodles a toothbrush 'stache on the face of a public figure, one is making a statement.

The days of frumpy, disastrous outfits in the Parliament are slowly ending with the advent of fashion conscious younger crop of politicians, be it Jyotiraditya Scindia, Dr Karan Singh or the older but no less stylish Namo. "Within this decade, you will see an unparalleled shift, evident even today. The younger generation of politicians are more cautious with their persona as they rub shoulders with business tycoons, eminent personalities and television journalists. Going forward it would be well accepted to be stylish and be politically wise," Rathode concludes.