The Ice Cream men

Everything’s right with the world when one sways slightly forward peering into a gelato parlour. What ensues is critical, yet magical decision making. One flicks one’s tongue impatiently over lips and for a few fleeting moments forgets all else.

The intent thought bubble reads: “Is it a chocolate-y day or one that calls for mint? Should troubles be thawed on the palate with a scoop of strawberry or should they soften as cold orange scoops of mango on a crisp cone?,”

The story of one such slice of paradise — a quaint little gelato shop in Micro layout, Arekere, begins on a different continent altogether. Circa 2009, in Trento, Italy, owner of a gelato shop and a pizzeria realised that two enterprises were too much.

The shutters came down permanently on the gelato parlour and he donated the gelato machines to father Ruggero of a seminary associated with a children’s home in India.

The machines by divine design travelled to the campus of Snehasadan, a shelter for orphaned and underprivileged children started in 1996 by Sons of the Immaculate Conception (CFIC) and run by Father Varghese, Father Binu Stephen and Father Binu PD.

The day the gelato machine arrived was “15 August, 2009”, reminisces Anson V Johnson, a volunteer. It was accompanied by an Italian professional who passed on the knowhow of gelato making to the Fathers.

Two members from Snehasadan were sent to Carpigiani, Mumbai, the manufacturer of the machine for training. After a few months of hands-on experience with the gadget, Snehasadan or SS Ice creams, a Gelato Italiano outlet came into being.

The purpose of the endeavour wasn’t just to whip out delectable frozen desserts, “we wanted to guarantee economic support for Snehasadan”, explains Father Binu. There are bigger plans for the home that provides shelter to 30 boys who are sent to three different schools to study in English and Kannada medium.

The immediate needs are for some cots and water heaters so the boys can bathe in warm water. “We would also like to build a school and accommodate as many as 75 kids in the future,” he adds. 

The past year hasn’t been easy for the gelato outlet. Johnson says that business the first few months was rather feeble. The weather also plays a role in the demand. “And we are not the most business savvy people,” admits Father Binu.

But the fundamental problem with the business, however, was ignorance. “People don’t know what gelato is,” says Johnson. So what is gelato? Why can’t it just be called an ice cream. It’s Daniel Garotalo’s turn to speak.  A master Gelatiere (one who makes gelato) whose father was also a Gelatiere, Daniel has been in the business since he was 15 and is currently at Snehasadan as a volunteer helping set up another parlour on the premises.

“You can live on gelato, you know,” he says “It is full of proteins and vitamins.” The differences he points out are that gelato contains far less fat, around 0% to 8%, while most ice cream can contain 10% to 16% fat. It is made fresh, daily. It is free of artificial colours or any preservatives and can have as much as 30% fresh fruit.

Having tried a few local ice creams, he points out that the proof of the gelato is in the eating of it. “You taste it. It is more flavourful, smoother, softer and melts in your mouth. But, commercial ice cream has more air content and is harder,” he explains.

It’s half-past-four and the kids are back from school, playing outdoors. Through the din of mischievous children Johnson, Father Binu and Daniel take us to what looks like a small room painted fushia on the outside.

Johnson opens the door to the hallowed place where gelato is made on the premises. He explains the process; first the base is prepared for any kind of gelato in a boiler wherein fresh whole milk, sugar, powered skimmed milk and cream are pasteurised.

This concoction when ready is added to ‘Mantecatore’ along with the fruit pulp where it is mixed and whipped. The Gelatiere tests the consistency with an oar or ‘pala’ and knows when it’s ready. Currently, Anish Mathew prepares the gelato for SS Ice creams.

He ventures out at 5.30am to buy fruit, and the flavours of the day depend on the fruit available. “Custard apple, cheeku, papaya, etc are flavours he’s not tasted in Italy,” says Daniel, a man who has probably consumed more gelato than most people ever will.

Twenty-four flavours are on the SS menu and each day nine are made. The current capacity at the centre is 160l of Gelato. This will go up to 250l when a new, more advanced machine comes in a few weeks. MEC3, an Italian company is helping with ingredients a ingredients that can’t be sourced in india.

The plan is then to open three more stores. Two more on Bannerghatta road and one in Koramangla, says Johnson.
But how much has the shop really pitched in to make the boys’ life better? “Like any other business, a year isn’t enough time to make a profit,” says Johnson, who is positive that things will pick up in the future.

People around the area know that the shop helps Snehasadan and we do have people drop clothes, books, etc, for the boys at the ice  cream parlour, says Father Binu. “But since we opened the gelato shop, our boys are very happy; they’ve had so much gelato that they must be tired of it,” he speculates. But at the close of another day, the boys are anything but tired or tired of gelato.

Daniel quizzes them and asks what ‘Bonne Journo’ means. A flurry of enthusiastic wrong answers are hurled at him in chaotic decibels. “You know Italian?” he asks a little boy. The boy pauses and says, “I know Gelato”. 

SS or Snehasadan Ice cream will open its second outlet in Arekere on November 27, when Gelato will be free all day long.
www.sadansneha.org