The mountains spread beneath you are a sight that you won’t forget in this lifetime
At 5 am on a Friday, I found myself at the check-in counter being told that the flight to Delhi, which I needed to get on to make it on time for the one to Leh, was overbooked. It meant I would have to return the next day. I pleaded, cajoled, and yes, lied, too, so that I could get on this flight.
As luck would have it, one of the passengers, who had checked-in, didn’t show up. This meant I had 15 minutes to get on the flight. Running through the terminal with help from the airline crew member, I sailed past the security check. And found myself in the last vacant seat just about two minutes before the plane hit the runway. But every bit of this madness was worth the days I got to spend in the place that owns my soul — Ladakh. Here are some tales from the brief trip.
Pics: Harshada Rege
1. Day 1
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When you reach Leh, you do nothing. Yes, that’s right. While you may be excited to take in the sights and begin your journey immediately, it’s advised that you spend your first day here just resting it out. Why? Well, the reason is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Leh is at an altitude of 3,524 metres (11,562 ft), and due to the outside air pressure, which is lower than inside your lungs, it becomes difficult to pull in the thinner air and for your veins to pump oxygen throughout the body. This can lead to experiencing nausea, vomiting, fatigue, dizziness or even lightheadedness. People often recommend travelling by road via Srinagar as it helps acclimatise better than landing straight in Leh by air. This, however, being my third trip to the destination, I decided to take a flight. If you plan to do the same, ensure you get yourself a window seat. The mountains spread beneath you are a sight that you won’t forget in this lifetime. No matter what route you pick, it’s important to rest it out to acclimatise. After spending a large part of the day in the bed, I took a walk in the bazaar area. After a quick dinner, the temperature, I was told, was -3 degrees Celsius. It was time to call it a night.
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2. Day 2
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Ladakh is a paradise for a solo traveller. Look out for the various boards put up outside travel agencies that offer a trip to destinations on sharing basis. This will help you manage your trip on a certain budget. Yes, sharing a vehicle with strangers comes with its challenges, but this, too, will be a novel experience. A day trip to Pangong can cost you around Rs 2,500 if you are ready to travel with others. You need permits to travel to many parts here. It’s advisable to get your permits sorted first. You can either get one of the local agencies to help you or the process is simple enough to be managed on your own. This time around, I opted to explore Leh on foot. I first walked to the Leh Palace. Often out of breath due to incline, it did take some time to reach there. After lunch, it was time to head to Shanti Stupa, which offers a great view of Leh.
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3. Day 3
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It was time to head to Pangong now. I signed up for a trip with three other travellers. It lies on the other side of Changla Pass. On a chilly morning, we set out to see the lake that has become a rage with pretty much every tourist who comes here thanks to the film 3 Idiots. The last scene of the film that was shot here is something that many tourists are keen to recreate. Unfortunately, that has led to this, once secluded place turning into another touristy place. During my first visit in August 2008 (before the film’s release), this locale just had a few tents and eateries. Today, however, it’s a different story. But let that not deter you. On your way here, keep an eye out for the adorable Marmots and even Kiangs (wild asses). If you set out by 6 am, you will be able to reach Leh city by 6 pm.
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4. Day 4
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Despite promising myself that I will take it slow this time around, I found myself heading to the Nubra Valley the very next day. There’s just so much to do here that a day trip never seems enough for me. The famous Khardungla Pass, claimed to be the world’s highest motorable pass, makes for a great stopover. If you get an opportunity to meet the Marmots on your way to Pangong, in Hunder you see the Bactrian camel, which has two humps. At the sand dunes here, you can click pictures of them and ride them. Close to the Diskit monastery is the impressive statue of 32-metre Maitreya Buddha statue that makes its presence felt in the mountains. It faces the Shyok river and is among the most photographed monuments in Ladakh. One of the places that you must go to if you visit this Valley is the picturesque village of Turtuk, which was under Pakistan’s control until 1971, after which India gained control of this strategic area. You can opt for a comfortable homestay here. The village, which lies in the Baltistan Region, is a great place to observe their culture and was opened to tourist in 2009. Do try the apricots grown here, which are among the best in the world.
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5. Day 5
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Bidding Ladakh goodbye is always difficult. Before heading away, my last stop was at the Brazil Café in the main bazaar for a cup of Brazillian Cappuccino paired with a chocolate and carrot cake — probably the best I have ever had. After spending five days here, I could actually make it to my hotel without taking two breaks to catch my breath. And just when I got comfortable, it was time to go. The mountains, as always, had cast their spell. One that will definitely have me back seeking solace within its folds sometime soon.
Pics: Harshada Rege
