Dressed for the kill: the man’s suit

New fabrics, colours and designs have opened up the floodgates. The man’s suit is not what it used to be. Aastha Atray Banan tells you what you should look for in a suit

It has often been referred to as the little black dress of men’s fashion because it’s the one thing that never goes out of style.

The man’s suit is a timeless legend that absolutely refuses to fade. A constant fixture on the red carpet, the suit has revived through ages — be it the colours, fit or fabric — and has yet retained its iconic status to date.

Fortunately now, the Indian man is spoilt for choice — in a big way. He no longer heads to the good old Raymond or Reid and Taylor, buys his fabric and then ambles off to the darzi to get that fit.

He has the option of shopping at  Ermenegildo Zegna, the newest hi-end entrant in India, whose made-to-measure feature is well known, or he can opt for select designer labels, such as Pratap by Rajesh Pratap Singh or Narendra Kumar and Gaurav Gupta creations.

Zegna is all about the fit and the fabric. “Zegna has recognised these two components as the most critical factors to define a fine suit. These garments are enriched with details that cannot be missed,” says Shantanu Mukerji, general manager, India.

The Zegna suit is also special in other ways — it’s made to measure. It is possible for the client to order custom-made suits, leather garments, jackets, pants, coats, shirts, ties, shoes and belts in a meticulous and detail-oriented process that takes a few weeks in the Swiss Alps. For the price, from Rs40,000 to Rs4,00,000, the experience is worth it.

Gurtaj Kahlon, a 37-year-old businessman, who owns a Zegna suit, agrees. “The fitting was an experience in itself. The guy dressing me was impeccable. I think it’s very important to invest in a suit these days.”

But the journey has not been without a few transformations. Though the black suit will always be classic, new colours and fabrics are nudging their way through. Would you consider a powder-blue suit?

Don’t be surprised, because according to ace designer Narendra Kumar, it is the hottest hue this season.

“The palette has become lighter, with powder blue, beige and khaki as the hot colours. Even the length of the jacket has become shorter. It’s super-slim and sportier than it has ever been before.”

Kumar, known for his immaculate fits, stresses on the importance of the fit. “It has to fit well on the shoulder and shouldn’t be too tight on the sleeve. With the right suit, a man possesses a sense of confidence,” he adds.

For Gaurav Gupta, the hot new designer of the country, ‘quirk’ is a must. “The suit needs to fit well and should have a right amount of edge mixed in.

Shiny fabrics like taffeta, satin and a leather-finish look are in vogue now. Subtle stripes and colours such as midnight blue and grey are preferred,” says Gupta. “It’s the year of the sexy suit — with low necklines and very few buttons.”

For those who prefer the more conservative look, Italian brand Moschino could be good choice. “To get the right suit for a man, he should definitely look at the fit. The shoulder pad should sit perfectly on the shoulder and should not droop.

The cut should be such that it sits comfortably on the body and not forcibly,” says a spokesperson for the brand. The suits at Moschino start at Rs50,000.

For a man who likes to look as good as he feels, a suit is the perfect outfit. Investing in one could be a life-altering experience. With the right suit, one thing is for sure, you will never go unnoticed again.

 b_aastha@dnaindia.net