Tastes and trends

Occasionally one likes to comment on recent developments in the world of food,
gastronomy and restaurants, so here we go.  First, the sad news.  Anyone who is familiar with Bangalore and steaks would know of Haroon Sait, the owner of The Only Place, a restaurant renowned for its chateaubriand, filet mignon, even gourmet burgers (much before the term came into vogue) as well as the most scrumptious apple pie and would be much saddened by his recent demise.

Not only was he a great personality, restaurateur and caterer, but his lamb chops were
legendary, served even at the British High Commission in New Delhi as “Bangalore lamb chops”. 

We also lost one of the most flamboyant of TV chefs, Keith Floyd, with his cavalier attitude, spotted bowtie and minor public school mien, was a fixture on the Discovery Travel & Living channel. I always thought that he was the one chef who knew how to use TV and his infectious effervescence and honest, simple cooking style caught people’s fancy, attracting them to both, the food and cooking. Personally, I thought his Indian series was a disaster in terms of gastronomy, but it was visually magical. He will be missed.

In terms of food festivals, the ITC group seems to be going into overdrive. There was an excellent Hyderabadi festival showcasing the talent and rich repertoire of Kulsum Begum, a scion of the Salar Jung family and quite a catch for the ITC group in their desire to revive the royal cuisines of India. 

I also went to a very curious festival at the Grand Central presenting the Basa fish, a species of catfish found in the Mekong Delta in Vietnam, now hugely popular in America. I must confess I had not taken much to catfish, but the Basa was a revelation.  The flesh was white, the flavour subtle and it was sweet-smelling. It was pleasantly bereft of the fibrous bones which otherwise plague freshwater fish. The Basa recipes were allied to different styles of cooking, smoking, poaching and grilling.

I had a Basa encased in filo pastry with a tomato concasse, a creation of a very talented young chef, Dhaval Ajmera, who should go far. I think the Basa has a great future if it is marketed well, it may well be the Black Cod or Chilean sea bass of the future. My only reservation about fresh water fish in general is that the freezing process has to be perfect, as they are invariably frailer than sea fish and are inclined to spoil more readily.

I also went to the launch party of Tote, Rahul Akerkar’s new and grandiose restaurant and bar at the Race Course. The space is huge and imposing. It would be dishonest to say that the decor was entrancing. I found it cold and soulless, but perhaps this is personal. Kapil Gupta’s designs worked brilliantly in the Blue Frog. I am not convinced that it does in such a heritage space. Anyway anything overlooking the most resplendent verdant patch in the city must have a lot going for it. I look forward to dining there and it is a welcome addition to the options available in south Mumbai. 

Email: g_javed@dnaindia.net