Coming of age

Meera and Muzaffar Ali brought poetry to the ramp today. Swinging, soft lines, amasingly deft combinations of weaves in organza and silver, Benarasi silk combinations for festive wear and young, hip western tops in chikan teamed with black trousers, slim pants and palazzos made up the very eye-catching collection. Also bent on stealing the scene were the wonderful long and mid-length jackets...each one of a kind, telling a different story. Black and white with splashes of colourful prints or appliqué, plain or quilted, they were both versatile and fluidly easy to wear.

At the other end of the spectrum, with sharp lines and bright prints was Prashant Verma’s ode to the Ego, dedicated to an almost forgotten Ayn Rand. I loved the flowing jagged edge asymmetric dress of the showstopper as well as the constructed shoulders on most of his clothes. Satin, leather and silk made for interesting textural combinations. And the corded cotton jackets were to die for.

Tanvi Kedia sprung a lovely surprise for me, as I have not seen her work before. Her line was really eye-catching. Colours, embroidery, silhouettes...everything worked in harmony to great effect.

Swapan and Seema sent out some pretty saris; liked a grey and silver, very ethereal.
Lecoanet Hemant set a standard with their wonderful line-up of western wear: sharp creations that were form-fitting, feminine, yet edgy, some harnessed with leather straps for ‘comfort’, others constructed of silk jersey or soft leather.

And now it is time for the spectacle as the Week ends with Gudda’s show.
Immaculately crafted as always, his velvet and gold short ensembles were regal, almost bewitching in their cut and swing.

Rohit Bal left nothing undone: there was a profusion of silhouettes, colours textures. They ranged from flouncy harem pants with embroidered cuffs over short velvet and silk kurtas with enough gathers to clothe a family, textured skirts that created a mood only with layers of cloth and stitching.

There were meshes of stiffened thread welded miraculously together to create dress forms, and entire ensembles, in colours of the earth, some complete with cowl. Brocade mingled with the more common white silk, embroidered jacket panels danced over shaded skirt hems, Jodhpurs and fitted jackets walked side by side with long flowing kurtas that must have had at least a 1000 panels!

The sari came into its own, kamarpatti and all, thanks to a surprise appearance by Arti Surendranath on the ramp and the shoes ranged from shocking red lacquered creations to gold washed leather.

Make-up was created to match the look, and everything was set against a profusion of gold lotuses, under a transparent ramp and on the stage backdrop and walls. Not to mention the tall standing lotuses at the edge of the ramp that threatened to trip the milling crowds, but luckily did not do so.

The highlight was, unexpectedly, a breathtaking performance of Krishna Leela by some nameless but wonderfully talented group of gold-washed male dancers, and a colourfully clothed Krishna.

The entry by Katrina and Ranbir Kapoor was almost an anticlimax after the sheer magic of the dance and the show that went before it. Gudda could have saved himself that trouble. All told though, truly a finale worth the wait, and the name!

If one does wish to track trends that seem to be making a statement through the week, it would be the asymmetrical hems, churi sleeves, black and white as contrasts to be favoured, and the  ability to accept a swing in mood, from the easy and comfortable to the fitted and strapped. Both have their place in the wardrobe of tomorrow, if the indications are right.

Grey in back in favour, leggings have given up the fight and trousers, slim fitted or otherwise are back, and there is a return to prêt as it should be, sans bling.
Classic is back in fashion too, clean lines are in favour, and a movement towards sustaining Indian textiles and crafts in ways that are both contemporary and global seems to be gaining strength.

And young designers are getting daring, irreverent, and finding voices that are both individual and clear.

Despite the glitches the Week has been one of hope. Forget the celeb brigade, the bad eggs who seem to have been allowed to wander on to the ramp by mistake; forget the hype and hysteria of PR handouts, and what remains is a showing of some serious talent, by designers who are upcoming, and raring to find their space in the fashion firmament.

The next step then, is for FDCI, and all the other Fashion Weeks, in Mumbai or Goa, or Bangalore, or Chennai, or Kolkata: to start giving the new boys and girls their due, a finale show, a special event...then FDCI would be proud to be seen as coming of age!