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Beauties in sleeping castles

Vijaya Pratap does the rounds of summer castles in Amsterdam and is left enchanted

Beauties in sleeping castles
Kasteel de Haar

On a scenic drive of less than 30 minutes from the Amsterdam airport, we reached a beautiful country estate — Landgoed Duin & Kruidberg. The best way to unravel the history of Holland is by exploring its nearly 700 castles and country houses — some also steeped in royal history.

This lovely property ensconced in the woods has turned from the once princely hunting grounds to a five star hotel, restaurant and convention centre all rolled into one: it has an interesting history. The old-Dutch-style monument takes one back to the 17th century when many Amsterdam traders boasted rural estates like these. Its oldest known owner Hendrik Reijnst was with Dutch East India Company. The estate changed many landlords from governors to ministers to politicians; it became a hunting lodge; underwent changes from baroque to typically British. What impressed me most was its priceless art filling every corner. Its four beautiful period rooms were my favourite haunts as I would walk through them or recline in a seat and sink in the old world charm.


(1 & 2: Landgoed Duin & Kruidberg; 3: Swans in the moat around Kasteel de Haar; 4: Interiors of Kasteel de Haar with the family’s colours of red and white; 5: Embroidered bedspread from India at the Amerongen — A Sleeping Castle)

Kasteel de Haar

While some Dutch castles started out as grand fortifications, some are countryside summertime retreats of successful merchants and politicians, often placed in picturesque, water-rich spots that were easily accessible from the major cities. With varying architectural styles and landscaping, many of them are now open to the public as museums with private art collections, rare antique furniture, and exquisite artefacts. One such is 'Kasteel de Haar', the largest and most luxurious castle of Holland, located just outside Utrecht, which is a 30 minute drive from Amsterdam.

A very endearing scene greeted me as I approached Kasteel de Haar — five swans were swimming gracefully in the moat around the castle. Gliding smoothly, often ducking underwater, occasionally pausing to preen, making such an awesome visual!

Like a real fairy tale castle, Kasteel de Haar rises majestically from parkland with towers, turrets, moats, gates and suspension bridges. The enchanting edifice oozes opulence from its early 20th-century Gothic Revival interiors. This 13th century medieval house fell into disrepair five centuries later. The current buildings built upon the original castle, date from 1892, and all the work of Dutch architect Cuypers in a restoration project funded by the Rothschild family. It has 200 rooms and the park and gardens cover over 135 acres of land; a huge kitchen with its state of the art Drouet stove and the biggest copper cookware set, even bigger than that of the Dutch royal family!

One room has Gregory Peck's picture on the table, with his distinctive winning smile. The story goes that the de Haar family had a tradition of staying in the castle every September (hunting season) and throw lavish parties. Celebrities like Gregory Peck, Roger Moore, and Brigitte Bardot stayed in the castle as guests. There are exclusive beauty parlours for men and women in the castle! The interior of the castle is decorated with richly ornamented woodcarving; furnished with dainty old porcelain from Japan and China and several old Flemish tapestries. Paintings with religious illustrations adorn the walls, while a Japanese carrier coach that belonged to a shogun lady steals the show.

A Sleeping Castle

Just before sunset, we entered Amerongen Castle with the imposing building making a pretty silhouette and the orange sun reflected in placid waters of the moat. Built on the site of a medieval castle immediately after the French had burnt it down in 1673, Amerongen's historic gardens boast an orangery from the 1890s. The wooden clock tower (from 1728) contains the original clock of the same date that still works!

Catherina, our guide refers to Amerongen as a 'sleeping castle'. Many country houses and castles were inhabited only in the summer as the families moved to a more comfortable (better heated) stay during winter. In October, they would start 'putting the house to bed'— the castle is cleaned, the furniture sheeted and precious things put away."

Treading softly we went around Amerongen — the sleeping beauty. We couldn't peep through most of the treasures as they looked like ghosts, covered with white sheets. The main hall with a central staircase is baroque in style, the painted ceiling and walls predate 1673. An exquisitely embroidered bedspread from India was under the process of being rolled neatly and put away. The superb creation by my country's craftsmen made my heart swell with pride!

In The land of castles

The current buildings, built upon the original castle of Kasteel de Haar, date from 1892. It’s the work of Dutch architect Cuypers in a restoration project funded by the Rothschild family 
The wooden clock tower (from 1728) at Amerongen Castle contains the original clock of the same date that still works

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