Midnight at the mohalla

The shoving and pushing to get into the train comes to good this time of the year for all you foodies. Braving the crowd, heat and dust, hoards head to Mohammed Ali road and its bylanes to gorge on the chicken tikka, dabba gosht, bheja fry, paya suka and the mouth-watering fare doled out every Ramzan.

Makeshift eateries line the entire stretch but if you hunt hard, you'll find some…ahem… peculiar but delicious food. From the tongue to the tail, all parts of the goat are cooked.

"Bakre ki zabaan," the waiter from Al Madina restaurant calls out as people walk by. You look curiously and he says, "Only Rs 15 per piece." A dry dish, the tongue is a delicacy and is fried with numerous 'secret' masalas that he refuses to give away. Moin restaurant is another popular eatery to head to if you want to try out various spare parts. 

Post 10 pm, you'll have to jostle for space since Mumbaikars from all corners of the city head for an all-night eatathon. "This is one time of year that we really look forward to. Not only is there the most delicious food but it's also so affordable. If we're heading home late, the only options are a five-star coffee shop or a lone shop here and there but Mohammed Ali road is where we get some great wholesome food," says student Sriram Venkatachalam.

If you don't head to Barahandi quick enough, you might be greeted by 12 half empty pots. A dozen different dishes cooked in different forms, the goat's tail (pichota) is popular here. For those of you'll who don't want to step out of the car, Zaika opposite JJ Hospital is a great stopover.

A favourite with party-goers throughout the year, here's where you should try the khiri or goat's udders. Banker Yohan Rub zips around the country but during Ramzan, he makes sure he never misses out on a trip to Mohammed Ali road.

 "A lot of the people who come usually have the regular chicken tandoori or seekh kabab, but it's fun to try out the unusual dishes. Khiri kababs are absolutely delicious - slightly chewy, it also comes in a dry masala form," he says and adds, "maybe this time around, I'll also try the quail (bater)."

It's self-service of a different kind here. Since some places concentrate only on the cooking of the meat, you might have to head to a bakery next door to get yourself lamba pav or rotis to go along with your meal.

The unusual fare is not relegated to just the main course. Sweets too can get interesting, like Irfan Khan of Suleman Mithaiwala says, "What's ever-popular is the regular phirni. But we have flavoured ones like kesar, mango and blackcurrant that people enjoy too."

The sweet shop has upto 300 varieties of sweets and add around 60 more during Ramzan.
 

Arm yourself with
Mineral water for the oh-so-pungent food.

Handkerchief to cover your nose from the smoke of the sigdi.

Comfortable walking shoes to make your way through the crowd.

Hand sanitiser. You aren't expecting a wash basin here, are you?!!

An antacid. The sight of the food will make you stuff your face and you might need the antacid for dessert.
 

Celeb Speak
"I make trips every year to Mohammed Ali road. It's the sheer energy and vibrancy of the place that is amazing about the place. I love the aflatoon from Suleman Mithaiwala and the people there are magnificently helpful," says Rashmi Uday Singh, food expert
 
"I've been busy travelling and haven't had the chance to go there as yet, but it's a nice, traditional thing to do and will make sure I go to Mohammed Ali road when I get back," says Arbaaz Khan, actor

"I grew up eating the kind of food that one finds at Mohammed Ali road. Though I eat that kind of food rarely these days, paya is the only thing I crave for from there. I enjoy paya curry but it's very fattening,"  says Saleem Merchant, music composer