Ashley Dejean: An American’s tryst with India

Having never been abroad, I was told that studying for a semester in India was a bold move and that I would be hard-pressed to find a more challenging experience.

When consulting my travel doctor, he looked at me incredulously and proclaimed India to be the dirtiest country in the world. Every travel guide I read offered the same ominous warnings: wear a travel wallet when carrying anything valuable, do not make eye contact with anyone, especially if you are a woman.

I read about Western women being sexually harassed and that I should not engage in conversation with anyone who approaches me. Upon arriving in India, I was excited and stared out of the window in wonder, unconcerned about those warnings, as I travelled from Mumbai to a retreat in rural Durshet. India was a beautiful, colourful and bustling country.

Sure, the roads gave me a heart attack, but in a reckless, thrilling, I-can’t-believe-I am-actually-doing-this way that made me laugh more than fear.

But then I got my first look at Pune, ending the honeymoon phase. My heart sank as we drove through the dirty, grey streets and I was painfully aware I would be staying here for four months.

My first tour of the area I would be studying in was overwhelming, the noise from the traffic was too much and I could not tell one street from the next.

Furthermore, I was paranoid by everyone on the street, due to the warnings from guidebooks. But I liked the charismatic girl showing me around the city and she loved the city, so I told myself that, somehow, I would love it too.

And so through the onerous, frustrating process of registering with the police, getting a cellphone (and dealing with it being shut off) and having absolutely no idea where I was most of the time, I tried, sometimes futiley, to stay positive.

And within a week, I took the locks off my backpack. I smiled and waved at the kids who said ‘hello’. I gave direction to two lost boys of my own age. I realised my travel wallet was ridiculous and just got in the way.

But I did not start to love India until I was dancing in the street during the Ganpati festival procession. It was then, surrounded by welcoming faces, that I felt absolutely safe despite warnings about the dangers of being part of this festival.

I like to think of the Ganpati festival as a warm welcome for me into the city because it came at the end of that first week in Pune and highlighted the beauty of the city, the beauty I had  been searching for.

It was not until then I could open my heart to the city and its people and see beyond the fears that had held me back while preparing for a trip to India. It was not until then I started to understand that I was surrounded by unconditionally friendly, generous and loving people.

— Ashley Dejean is studying International Development at the American University in Washington DC. She is presently in Pune on a student exchange programme