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Pret-a-preliminaries

Fashion world’s newest children are supremely talented, bursting with innovative ideas and displaying new-age aesthetics. Sonal Ved speaks to four gen-next designers who left a lasting impression at this season’s Lakmé Fashion Week

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Kanika Goyal
Kanika Goyal got us with her crop top screaming 'That's so rad'. The uber-chic collection of this Delhi-based designer is titled Creatures Of The Night and celebrates the uninhibited nature of humans.
Fairly ahead of its time, the collection is paradoxically inspired by Studio 54, a popular New York night club which was a rage in the 60s. "Therefore, think fun and young clothes such as washed demins, mellow gowns, pencil skirts, tops and tunics," she says. Goyal's aesthetics are anything but Indian but she skilfully uses bead work on her garments to form words such as 'your so money', 'as if' and other American slang phrases. While she is only 25 and relatively new in the industry, Goyal's clothes have already been endorsed by the Bollywood brigade, including Alia Bhatt and Monica Dogra.

In terms of fabric, Creatures Of The Night uses glass nylon, polyester satin, denim, lycra, foam jersey, chiffon and georgettes in shades of white, beige and lilac. "There is a clever mix of textures and each garment is detailed with lots of folds, layering, overlapping and panelling since I am in love with geometric lines and architecture," she says.

Manish Bansal
Armed with a degree in fashion design technology in men's wear from the London College of Fashion, Manish Bansal's collection showcases international cuts, colours and silhouettes that are not easy to come by. The collection is titled Suits, a pun on the word to mean suits as a fashion garment and suits as in a card set.

"It is also inspired by the economic depression of our times where the men in suits gambled with the lives of many," says the Delhi-based designer. Bansal's collection is largely white with taints such as blue-gray, navy, yellow and orange. The colours are introduced using a bonding technique where two kinds of fabrics are blended in a way to give the look of a print. "It's a mix of suits, single and double breasted jackets, mid-length trousers, coats, boxing shorts and cuffed shorts," Bansal explains.

The collection has the vibe of urban summer resort wear with its colour palette, light linen fabric and cuts such as ankle length pants, modern shorts and structured-yet-comfortable shirts.

Priyanka Ella Lorena Lama
Think Zen-like kimonos, flowing white kaftans, wrap-around maxi dresses with long trails, ballooning sleeves and asymmetrical cloak. That's Bangalore-based Priyanka Ella Lorena Lama's collection titled Utopia. "My inspiration was a mind emancipated through rigorous meditation… If you look at the garments from far, all you will see are white blank spaces, but as the models comes close, you will observe the detailing," says the 24-year-old. Utopia also delves into the world of the body's seven chakras, hand-painted on the garments in stone-gray paint. "It is my interpretation of the chakras.

For instance, the heart chakra has been depicted as an embryo, because for me it represents love and pain," she says. Lama's collection is made using silk. A single piece of cloth is used to create one garment at a time. "It also has no closure, like the meditative state. Therefore you will see no zippers or buttons. All you have to do is slip it on."

Salita Nanda
Inspired by Picasso's cubist painting 'Les Demoiselles D'vignon', Salita Nanda's collection Demoiselles is a costume drama. Painted in colours such as reds, yellows and browns with undercurrents of white and beige, each outfit is relentlessly glamorous. Says the 26-year-old designer, "Most clothes have a boxy and structured look, which is what I drew from Picasso's painting. To create it, I used a lot of bone wire to hold the garments together." The highlight of Demoiselles is the unusually rectangular tube top worn over a puffed skirt. The collection comprises wraparound shorts, appliqué printed maxis, crop tops, jackets, skirts and dresses. Her clothes are detailed with prints of African symbols and masks and accessories that she has created using a rare three dimensional printer.

Also on the ramp
What: A graduate from Studio Bereot Paris, Alan's label is called Kaleekal. His latest collection is a medley of primarily two colours – ecru and black. The models showcased an eclectic mix of tie-up dresses, boxy cotton tunics, full-length skirts and sexy cropped tops.

What: Carpenter's clothes are a treat for the eyes, what with colours such as lemon yellows, acid greens and clean whites meshed together to create ultra feminine garments. Carpenter's current collection is inspired by the cactus but the overall look is anything but jagged.

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