Last week, Pitti Peacocks descended at the iconic menswear trade show — Pitti Uomo in Florence. Fashion buyers, exhibitors, bloggers, photographers, models, editors — all dandified and hipstered-up — all dressed to kill. Olive green top coats fastened over a black turtle necks, a bright orange knit cap lending character to a stark muted layered ensemble and a biscotti brown houndstooth overcoat having a chat with a white knit jumper. Colour blocking, tone on tone layering and an interplay of prints and textures emerged to be the key trends at the 95th edition of Pitti Uomo. Classic tailoring, high-waist pants married to Chelsea boots seemed to be the winning ensemble at the fair.
“A colour pop would never kill anybody. It’s amazing as it adds a hint of hue to a stark black ensemble in the gloomy European winter. Pitti Uomo is the platform to go all out and the final recognition of menswear. Most of these men are trying to wear what they are, but sometimes they are also trying to impress. I am all for colours and every detail and if men can carry it off, why not. Why not push the envelope a little more?” asks designer Sahil Aneja.
NO RULE IS THE NEW RULE
Designer Gaurav Khanijo observes that now we are approaching a time when there are no rules anymore. A jacket can be worn with a pair of joggers, a formal suit can be accessorised with a cap. It’s great to see everyone exploring their individual style. It’s all about about mixing and matching — luxury with street.
Nifty jewellery and knit caps lend gravitas to ensembles (left); Pop hued headgears to accent the look; ― Pics: Pitti Immagine
“From this year’s Pitti landscape, I love the colour play and men in graphics. The olive trench coat stands out and also the orange cap. If you throw a pop pink T-shirt or a shirt with a black or midnight blue suit, it looks beautiful. You don’t need a tie or a pocket square to amp up the ensemble. If you look at the archival images of Pitti Uomo from 10 years ago, they look as alluring as they are today — check pants, tan belts and brogues. Italian men like to throw a fun element on their suits — it could be a statement tie or another nifty accessory,” says Gaurav.
THE IDEAL WINTER LAYERING
If the summer edition of Pitti Uomo is about vibrant colours and linen suits, the winter edition sees more of Chelsea boots paired with suits in a palette of rust, mustard, wine and khaki. Stylist Isha Bhansali, who attended the summer edition of the fair last year, says, “I like the trench coat and suit layering idea, which works beautifully for winter. What makes Pitti Uomo stand out as compared to fashion weeks in Milan and Paris that the overall luxury focus is about the bespoke wear. That’s how Pitti men treat their suits. I got to admit some of the looks are a tad over-styled. But it’s a visual feast and you never get to see that in other fashion capitals. It’s overwhelming, but in a very pleasant way,” says Isha.
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