Let’s Chat about chutneys

When it comes to chutneys, you don’t have to travel to any part of India to have your fill. Each region has its own unique take on dips and relishes, made from ingredients that are indigenous to their area. In the last one year itself, food historian and author Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal, has managed to document almost 200 chutneys from across the length and breadth of the country. “We usually think of the taste factor when it comes to chutneys but they are more than that. Even in small quantities, they supplement our diet with essential nutrients,” she informs. With September 24 being observed as Chutney Day, we take a look at a few which may not be as popular, but certainly pack a punch!  

Doon Chetin
Nikhil Merchant: Food writer and gourmet consultant

Nikhil, who was recently in Kashmir for some work, decided to spend some time learning Kashmiri cuisine from Chef Anil Chouhan, executive chef — WelcomHotel Pine N Peak, Pahalgam. “He taught me a simple and delicious Rainbow Trout, which is fried and served with Doon Chetin, a walnut chutney,” he says. While the fish was delicious on its own, Nikhil says that the chutney helped enhance its taste and took it to another level. “The chutney can be either coarse or blended with ingredients such as hung curd, fresh cream, Kashmiri red chilly powder, shahi jeera, dried mint and radish among other things. It completes all the flavour profiles,” he adds. Calling it a ‘headturner’, Nikhil says that while its traditionally served with chicken and fish, back home, he plans to enjoy Doon Chetin with chips. 

Perilla seeds chutney (Wild sesame) 
Gitika Saikia: Food curator and storyteller

As the tribal fare from North-East parts of the country tends to be simple, it's the addition of spicy chutneys that perks up the dishes. Gitika, who belongs to the Sonowal Kachari tribe of Assam, wasn't very familiar with the huge array of chutneys, until she married her husband who belongs to the Bodo tribe. “They make all kinds of chutneys, including one made of colocasia leaves,” she says. Gitika came across the perilla seeds chutney when she went to visit her brother who resides in Bordumsa, in the region bordering Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. “The small town has a weekly market on Thursdays. The Chakma tribe women occupy a small section where they bring their produce from the hills. I tasted the perilla seeds chutney there. It's made using garlic, red chillies and perilla seeds. Some people also add dry fish and a pinch of lime juice to it,” she says. Served with rice preparations, this chutney is spicy and also keeps the body warm, especially during winters when it’s more widely available. 

Curry leaf chutney
Chef Mutthukrishnan: Sous chef, South High 

While one is familiar with coconut or garlic chutneys, it’s the not-so-familiar kadi patta chutney found in Kerala cuisine that chef Muthukrishnan finds himself going back to for his dosas and idlis. “Not everyone likes the taste of curry leaves, so we make this chutney once in every ten days for the thali at the restaurant,” he tells us. Made with ingredients such as ginger, garlic, tamarind, desiccated coconut and of course, lots of curry leaves, the chutney goes well with almost everything, including appams, neer dosas, idlis and more. “Just be careful not to over-roast the leaves,” warns the chef. Even if had in a quantity, Muthukrishnan says that it aids in cooling the body.

Chukh
Chef Kedar Bobde: corporate executive chef, Neel 

Kedar first tasted Chukh, the fiery red chilly chutney, at his friend’s house. The Himachali chutney, he tells us, can be made either with red chillies or green chillies, although the former seems to be more popular. “For the former, you have to combine equal quantities of fresh red chillies and smoked dry chillies and leave them to cool. Dry roast masalas such as ajwain, jeera, coriander seeds, mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds. Other ingredients such as hing, tamarind and turmeric powder also find their way in it,” he says. If you’re making it with green chillies, then you add ginger-garlic paste to it, minus the turmeric powder. “The chutney made with red chillies is used as a dip or sometimes, used to marinate meats such as mutton. The green one is typically had with rice or chapati,” he informs. 

Green Onion Chutney

Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal: Food historian and author