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Knocking on winter's door

With our eyes on A/W '13, After Hrs got talking to designers about their collections for the season, classic must-haves for all times, what the international trend forecast for the nippy season ahead is, and more. Take a cue is what we'll say.

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Knocking on winter's door
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Designer Rajat Tangri
1. International trend forecast: Navy is the season’s chief colour as it goes beautifully with other favourites like black, burgundy and a pop of purple. The masculine feminine story is highlighted the best with pinstripe, slouchy trousers, double breasted jackets and oversized coats that are man-like, almost like a cocoon, in amazing textures.

2. My A/W ‘13 collection: The collection is called The Dark Ages and is inspired by the Byzantine era. It comprises of structured dresses and an array of bold colours including emerald.

3. Essentials for the Indian wardrobe: For the Indian climate, a must-have would be a good pair of denims, a shirt, a black dress, a well fitted jacket and the right shoes and accessories. This could contribute to a few looks that could be put together and help the person dress up or dress down!

4. To make a mark in the industry: Confidence is what you need and creativity takes you a long way.

5. To see a celebrity in my clothes: It feels amazing because it is something that I have given birth to and I have an attachment towards all my designs. It is okay if something doesn’t work out because then you get time to focus on the wrong, but if it is a win then it is a bonus.

Designer: Sanchita Ajjampur

1. International trend forecast: Sporty, minimal, or tailored silhouettes appear consistently in international forecasts. There is an underscored emphasis on the waist. Other key trends are bold colors, sheer materials that are layered, and graphics.

2. My A/W ‘13 collection: The current collection comprises tailored looks in tapered silhouettes that aim to effortlessly blur the line between day and evening wear. It is inspired from nature but interpreted in an unconventional, surrealistic way with a novel sense of three-dimensionality. Exotic flora and fauna are painted in a fantastic colour palette to further accentuate the surrealistic quality of the collection.

3. Essentials for the Indian wardrobe: Simple silhouettes are key — shift dresses, boxy shell tops, cropped trousers and collarless outerwear, while keeping the focus on colours, prints and embellishment.

4. To make a mark in the industry: India’s rich cultural heritage often creates its own unique reference points. The main aspect is that Indian fashion is known for its rich diverse heritage and designers who can leverage these in the most innovative ways make a mark.

5. To see a celebrity in my clothes: The ‘Sanchita’ brand incorporates an international attitude and is finding its niche in the subcontinent’s fashion scene. It is exciting to see Indian and international style icons and actors wearing looks from the brand.

Designer Arpan vohra

1. International trend forecast: We see so many things happening this season. You have polka dots in a big way, you have graphics coming up; people are using monotones and colour blocking. It’s each to his own. It is how you interpret your own style and that is what makes more sense.

2. My A/W ‘13 collection: The whole look is very vintage. There is a lot of mix and match and vintage embroidery. We are working on our fall- winter collection which is inspired by the ’40s and ’50s. Work is also being done on very chic layering and cuts. The collection is versatile ensuring that it can be worn not only for one season but can be taken forward and can be used for the next season as well. As a designer, I believe one shouldn’t limit your designs to just one period or one trend.

3. Essentials for the Indian wardrobe: It is very important to stick by what suits one’s body and what you want to wear to a certain extent also depends on the event you are planning to wear it to. My suggestion: wear a simple high polo neck T-shirt and a crisp white shirt on top, tuck it in with your skinny trousers and you’re good to go.

4. To make a mark in the Indian fashion scene today: You need to have your own design sensibility and you need to be consistent. People should easily identify your style. It is a good feeling when people see your clothes from a distance and recognise it as an ‘Arpan Vohra’ because it is so young and chic.

5. To see a celebrity in my clothes: Feels brilliant. It is like the icing on the cake. There is a lot of commitment that goes into making a piece from scratch to a finished product. The idea that was there in your mind, develops, and when you see the hard work that has been put into it and when you see a celebrity wear it, that is the moment when you feel like your hard work has payed off. Recently Priyanka Chopra was seen wearing two of my outfits. That gives a big high.

Designer: Paresh Lamba

1. International trend forecast: From what I can understand, this time around it is very textured, layered and neons are going to rule again.

2. My A/W’13 collection: The collection is very dramatic. I am going to be using a lot more embellishment, detailing and a lot of layering and texturing as well. All that will culminate into a collection that is very dressy. When I say say dressy, I don’t mean it is going to be out of the box because a lot of people are going to be able to wear it. It will be dressy enough for any stylish event. The fabrics being used include velvet, lurex, natural mixes with wool, linen, silk and lycra.

3. Essentials for the Indian wardrobe: Cottons and silks, tropical wools and light weight wools, right fabrics and colours should do the trick.

4. To make a mark in the Indian fashion scene today: Your basic talent, hard work and passion is what takes you far. You need to be truthful to your work. People tend to believe that the fashion industry is very glamorous but it is not. There are a lot of challenges.

5. To see a celebrity in my clothes: I know it feels great to see a celebrity wearing my clothes but it doesn’t have to necessarily be a celebrity. For me it’s like creating a baby and watching the baby grow and finally when you see it develop into a fine young lady or man and when it creates a name, that’s what gives me a high. Each piece is special to me.

Designer: Sounak Sen Barat
1. My A/W ‘13 collection: It’s a collection of indigos, cerulean blues, rich emeralds and maroons. Peplums, mullet hems and exaggerated shoulders are the order of the day. We also have an engineered digital printed collection and a range of sheeted cocktail gowns and dresses. Fabrics include silk satins and chiffons, silk taffeta, linens, silk jerseys, lace and cotton sateens.

2. Essentials for the Indian wardrobe: Linens. Lots of it in all its forms. Also tunics, shirts, day dresses, suits, pants, jackets work well. I wonder why no one uses much of it. Linen is a symbol of understated luxury.

3. To make a mark in the industry: You need clear conviction and a unique vision. But what works eventually as magic every single time is simplicity. And that is the hardest to crack.

4. To see a celebrity in my clothes: It sure feels good as that one piece gets us visibility and helps in selling more basics. However, it is the ordinary consumer who is the most gratifying to me. When I get a call or a message from a client saying she felt like a princess and everyone complimented her when she wore House of Three, the overwhelmed tone in her voice... that’s incomparable to none other.

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